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A 

Summer 
Note-Book 




2-V-" '' 



ROBERT MILLER, O. W. RUGGLES, 

General Sup't, General Pass'r and Ticket Agent, 

Detroit. Chicago. 



1895. 




CONTENTS 



Where anm) How? 
Michigan Resorts, 
Niagara Falls, 
Central New York, . 
The St. Lawrence River, 
The Adirondack Mountains, 
The Hudson River, 
The Berkshire Hills, 
Vermont Resorts, 
The "White Mountains, 
The New England Coast, 
Canadian Resorts, 



5 
II 

23 
29 

31 

35 
43 

45 
49 
53 
63 
68 



Note. — The names o£ principal hotels, followed by the number of persons they 
can accommodate, are given in the text ni parenLheses. 



Copyright, 1S95, by O. W. Ruggles. 
Rand, McNally & Co., Printers and Engravers, Chicago. 



WHERE AND HOW? 



These are the two questions that 
more or less fill the minds of all deni- 
zens of towns and cities from the 
time the last flurr^^ of snow or blast 
of blizzard has passed in the spring 
until the heat and dust and weari- 
ness of early summer make a definite 
answer imperative. It matters not 
what the comforts or luxuries of home 
may be, nor how delightful the local summer 
climate. No one knows better than ourselves the 
charms of Chicago as a summer resort (you may 
substitute, if you choose, the names of Milwaukee 
or St. Louis or Kansas City or any other metropolis). 
But these charms are not for the Chicagoan, for the 
summer resort implies rest and a change of environ- 
ment that will both reinvigorate the body and free the 
brain from the old routine of toil that becomes doubly wearisome by 
its m.onotony. In the homely and forcible phrase of Hosea Biglow — 




" Hard work is good an' wholesome, past all doubt; 
But 'taint so if the mind gits tuckered out." 

At such times 

" It is good to lie beneath a tree, 
While the blithe season comforts every sense, 
Steeps all the brain in rest, and heals the heart, 
Brimming it o'er with sweetness tmawares." 

So in most city homes the question is early mooted. Where shall we 
go ? Tastes and desires are as varied as individuals. Can we not help 
you to reach an answer that shall be so satisfactory that the coming 
summer shall be forever memorable ? The following pages will depict 
briefly the characteristics of the most delightful summer resorts and 
most picturesque tours that our broad land possesses. "The Fairy 
Isle of Mackinac," in waters clear and pure as the exhilarating zephyrs 
that are wafted about it ; springs, lakes, and streams of Michigan, full 



6 



of health, full of trout and grayling, bass and mas- 
kalonge, and full of a wild beauty of their own; 
Niagara, with its power and majesty, its lovelines-^ 
and fascination, that ever grows on one; the Adi- 
^ ^ rondacks, with towering peaks rising above the 

|L^^g|^ primeval forest and a marvelous network of lakes 

^^HHh and ponds and streams, picturesque as Swiss or 

^^Kb Scotch Highlands, and a paradise for the wielder 

B|^ of rod or gun; the St. Lawrence, with its cold 

V B green waters spreading about the Thousand 

■ B Islands or lashed into white foam in the exciting 

m M,. Rapids; the Catskills, rising grandly above the 

lovely valley of the Hudson; the Berkshire Hills, 
that do not repel with rugged grandeur, but invite 
with wooing beauty and varied charms; the White 
Mountains, " the crown of New England," with cloud- 
capped granite summits, wild gorges, foaming cascades, 
and silvery lakes; the seacoast, with its rocky headlands and dashing 
surf, its broad sands and rippling waves, its grateful salt air and its 
bathnig and its sailing; Saratoga and Ballston, Richfield and Massena, 
St. Clair and Mt. Clemens, Alma and St. Louis, with their springs — 
saline, sulphurous, and chalybeate — their walks and drives, the hops 
and broad piazzas — all these and many others — " Oh ! list, how long 
to name ! " 

It shall go hard if among 
all these you shall not find 
your very chosen retreat 
that just meets your taste 
and the limit you have 
placed on your expendi- 
tures, for summer tour- 
ing does not necessarily 
mean extravagance. So, 
we pray you, take pencil 
in hand and scan these 
pages that you may find 
what you seek. 





Having found the Where, the How is easy enough 
to find. He was an astute philosopher who remarked 
the providence that made large rivers flow by large 
towns. It is no less a fact that the Michigan Cen- 
tral is the most direct and the best, and therefore 
the favorite route from Chicago and Detroit and 
the great West to these most delightful of all sum- 
mering places. The directness is shown by the 
map, the mileage table, and the time-card. As to 
the excellence, truly " we are advertised by our 
loving friends," and our best friends are those who 
have oftenest traveled with us and know most of 
those qualities that have made the ' ' Niagara Falls 
^sr*^ Route " world-famous. 

For the Michigan Central has always striven for 
and to be the best. Nothing less has satisfied or 
will ever satisfy its management. In the construction of its road- 
bed, its bridges, and its safety appliances; in its massive ^_ 
and powerful "great mogul" locomotives, its com- 
fortable coaches, its luxurious dining and buffet 
library cars, its sumptuous Wagner parlor and 
sleeping cars; in its assemblage of 
all the devices that inventive skill 
can suggest, and unlimited expend- 
iture can furnish, to conduce to the 
comfort, enjoyment, and safety of 
the passenger; in the scrupulous 
cleanliness and neatness of its ser- 
vice and the unvarying courtesy of 
its employes; in its extensive 
through-car arrangements and 
its terminal and transfer facili- 
ties; in all these things it is not 
enough that they should be 
good — they must be the best. ~~' i 

The Michigan Central has always 
been a favorite tourist route for 
these reasons. Wherever its trains 



•--<^^^ 



;==!. 




8 




run a pleasing panorama is presented to the passing traveler, to whose 
comfort and convenience its officials are never weary of ministering. It 
has never spared care nor expense in testing and adopt- 
ing devices to diminish danger, insm-e safety, increase 
speed, or add to its facilities. Among these are the 
Miller platform and coupler, the Westinghouse air- 
brake, the Pintsch light, vestibuled platforms, sump- 
tuous dining cars, and coaches as luxurious as the 
average parlor car. A hundred others might be men- 
tioned, unknown to the traveling public, yet of ines- 
timable importance to every traveler. 

Not one in a thousand of those who travel at light- 
ning speed in its palatial fast trains, drawn by ten- 
wheeled, sixty-ton, compound engines, over its magnificent solid road- 
bed laid with eighty-pound steel rails, equipped with interlocking 
switches and guarded by an army of employes, can know and appreci- 
ate the labor, care, and incessant vigilance that make possible his safe, 
sure, and comfortable journey. To describe these would take a much 
larger book than this. But the splendid equipment and successful 
operation of the Michigan Central is a grand result 
that proves the processes. 

The superiority of the construction, equip- 
ment, and service on the Michigan Central 
is attested, not only by the tens of thou- 
sands of passengers it annually carries, 
but by the newspaper press, which is 
quick to note conspicuous examples both 
of merit and demerit. 

The North- Western Christian Advo- 
cate says: "The North Shore Limited 
train of this road, which passes through a 
tract of country that furnishes the most 
charming scenery, is one of the finest trains 
run by any railroad in the world." TJie North- 
western Lumberman 2,^^^: "The Michigan Central 
never does anything by halves. Its train service is of the best, and its 
record for the safe carriage of passengers of the highest." 





The Bosto?i Journal, 
speaking of a recent - ^ ^- ^ ^ ,^- 

publication of the Michi- '^*"** ^fr*. - ''. t 

gan Central, entitled " Comfort 
in Travel," testifies that, " All who - " - •" 

have traveled on this line are •• K*i.jo-y.^. ., - -v- '^^^ 

convinced of the claims here so taste- -^ 

fully and truthfully presented." And 
the Catholic Union and Times adds this 
testimony, that " Everyone who has ever had the pleasure 
of making a trip on the Michigan Central knows that it has 
no superior for quick time, smooth road-bed, elegance of 
equipment, beauty of route, and a general all-around comfort." 

The Boston Tra?isc)'ipt also declares that " No one who has ever 
traveled on any of its favorite through trains will say that the luxuries 
and pleasures of this peerless route and the particularly perfect service 
have been overdrawn or overcolored. 

The School Journal of New York says: " Their extensive connec- 
tions, well-appointed cars (including parlor, dining, and sleeping coaches), 
and careful running to schedule time, and other features, make this a 
favorite route between the East and West." And the Rochester Post- 
Express speaks of it as " One of the best managed and most satisfactory 
railroads in the world to travel by." 

The Buffalo Ejiquirer speaks of it as follows: "Safe, luxurious, 
and fast, running over a peerless track amid the world's grandest 
scenery, the Michigan Central trains make comfort in travel a delightful 
reality. " The New York Daily News says: ' ' The Michigan Central, via 
New York Central to Buffalo, is one of the quickest and most delightful 
connections between Chicago and the East, and the service is unexcelled. " 

The Schenectady Daily Union testifies to " The luxurious surround- 
ings and elegant repose that characterizes one experience on the trains 
of that famous railway, the most perfect in its appointments of any line 
west of the New York Central. To call it comfort in travel is putting it 
very modestly. It is the travel of princely splendor." 
-,, An editorial writer in the Christian Leader of Boston, speaking of 
this same book, " Comfort in Travel," says that " It explains in the most 
complete and descriptive manner the advantages and charms of a trip 

9 



10 



over the Michigan Central, and the writer, who has in the last ten years 
taken this road no less than twenty-five times, can personally indorse all 
that is stated therein. The Michigan Central provides the best possible 
service between the East and the West." 

The Detroit Courier states that ' ' This Company has elevated the 
art of traveling into a science and brought into use every comfort and 
luxury, no matter the cost, for the benefit of their patrons." And the 

Christian Herald of the same city 
declares that " Comfort in travel has 
nowhere reached a higher degree of 
perfection than on this far and 
fffii^l '. wk' A % 4 IV i justly famed route. The ex- 

perience of many thou- 
sands of delighted passen- 
gers, as they have been 
whirled between Buffalo 
* i,' and Chicago over this line 
with a rapidity, ease and 
comfort incredible, is told 
in a story more interest- 
ing than romance, and 
"^ as realistic as experi- 

ence itself." 
The Toledo Sii7iday Jour- 
nal , in a recent elaborate article on the progress of modern 
railroading, exemp lified by the Michigan Central, spoke enthusiastic- 
ally of the luxury ' ' offered daily to those who follow this iron pathway in 
its swinging sweep from the lake to the sea, and who here find all and more 
of ample luxury and constant care for comfort and never suspending energy 
and correct attention to all these details with which traveling is a pleasure, 
and which absent, make the days torture and the nights hideous dreams." 
And, finally, to add the testimony of an expert, the Railroad Com- 
missioner of the State of Michigan, after a careful inspection, said, in 
his official report: "The main line is as near perfection in the way of 
construction, appointments, service, and able management as can be 
conceived in modern railroading. No skill or expenditure has been 
spared to make it the model railroad of the country." 




MICHIGAN RESORTS. 




* NORTHERN MICHIGAN. 



Is characterized by a sandy or calcareous soil, of good natural drain- 
age, and by an atmosphere of marvelous purity, laden with balsamic 
odors from the forests of pine, spruce, and other evergreens, giving 
health and strength to the invalid with every inhalation, and peculiarl}- 
curative of hay-fever, asthma, bronchial and lung affections. The clear, 
running streams of the mainland and the blue-green waters of the lakes 
are full of fish, and the forests afford good sport to the hunter in the 
proper season. The surface is rugged and hilly, and very picturesque, 
not only on Mackinac Island, but in the whole region of which it is the 
center. Reference to the map will enable the tourist to clearly trace his 
route. From the base-line of the Michigan Central from Chicago to 
Detroit, he will see five lines converging into two, running to Mackinaw 
City, at the point of the lower peninsula. 

ist. From Chicago to New Buffalo, thence via the Chicago & West 
Michigan Railway to Grand Rapids (connecting with the through lines 
of the G. R. & I. to Mackinaw), and to Traverse City, Petoskey, and 

11 



12 




' •^^wStBstofjgJI?-:' 



Bay View. Through parlor and 
sleeping cars run over this line 
from Chicago to Grand Rapids, 
Muskegon, and Bay View. 

2d. From Chicago to Kala- 
mazoo, thence via the Grand 
Rapids & Indiana Railroad to 
Petoskey and Mackinaw, to which 
points run through sleeping cars from 
Chicago, and parlor cars from Grand Rapids. 

3d. From Chicago to Jackson, thence via Saginaw Division to Bay 
City, and ]\Iackinaw Division to Mackinaw City. Over this line run 
sleeping cars from Chicago to Saginaw and Bay City, from Jackson 
to Mackinaw City, and from Saginaw to Mackinaw City. 

4th. From Detroit to ]\Iackinaw City via the Ba}^ City and jMackinaw 
Divisions of the Michigan Central. Over this line run sleeping and parlor 
cars from Detroit. Parlor and sleeping cars from Cincinnati via Cincin- 
nati, Hamilton & Dayton Railroad, as well as the through trains and 
sleej)ing cars from Niagara Falls, Buffalo, New York, and Boston, connect 
at Detroit with this direct rail line to Mackinaw. 

5th. From Detroit via the Main Line and Grand Rapids Division to 
Grand Rapids, and thence via Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad to 
Mackinaw City, and via Chicago & West Michigan Railway to Bay 
View, and to intermediate points. Through parlor and sleeping cars 
run likewise over these lines. 

Mackinac Island, lying in Lake Huron, opposite the outlet from 
Lake Michigan, is the chief point and center of this region. It is 
nearly nine miles in circumference, and rises 300 feet above the 
transparent waters. The greater portion is reserved as a State 
Park, and the southern bluff is crowned by the white walls of Fort 
Mackinac, a military post for two centuries. The picturesque village 
lines the crescent shore of the little harbor dominated by the imposing 
structure of the Grand Hotel, while the western heights beyond are 
covered by elegant summer villas of wealthy citizens, whose white- 
winged yachts hover about the island during the season. 

Mackinac is famous for its history and traditions. It was a rendez- 
vous of daring French explorers, voyageurs, and missionaries before the 




13 



Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. Battles 
have been fought there, and the flags of France, 
Great Britain, and the United States have 
waved over it. It was the headquarters of the 
American Fur Company. Schoolcraft lived on 
the island and collected the curious Indian tra- 
ditions that clustered around it. Longfellow 
visited him there, and wove these legends into 
the great epic poem of " Hiawatha." 

Mackinac is famous for its picturesque and 
beautiful scenery. It is a constant surprise and 
delight to the geologist and the botanist. Its 
wonderful Arch Rock ranks with the Natural Bridge 
and the Natural Tunnel of Virginia. Its smaller arches and caves, its 
great monolith of Sugar Loaf, its tall spires of rock reflected in the waters 
below, its charming mazes amid the forests and the thickets of arbor- 
vita, are all of great interest. But more entrancing are its clear air and 
sky, its gorgeous sunrisings and sunsettings, its wonderful views and 
atmospheric effects under the varied aspects of sun and moon, of calm, 
fog, and storm. 

Mackinac is famous as a sanitarium. Health and vigor come to the 
worn toiler and invalid with every breath, the air is turned into "a 
resinous wine, as grateful to the lungs as Falernian to the palate." 
A new zest is given to life. Appetite and digestion increase abnor- 
mally. Long, sound sleep refreshes the tired 
body and mind as never before. And with 
renewed strength and vigor, one finds action to 
be the very charm and flavor of life, and not its 
curse. Insects, particularly mosquitos, are con- 
spicuous by their absence. 

The hotels on the island are the Grand 
Hotel, accommodating 800 guests; the Astor 
House, 300; Mission House, 250; New Mack- 
inac, 200; the New Murray, 200; Island House, 
150; Palmer House, 100; Lake View, 50; Lazon 
House, 50; Chicago House, 100; Grand Central, 
100; Bennett Hall, 100. _ 




14 




Les Cheneaux Islands, or 

the Snow Islands, about a hun- 
dred in number, He clustered 
together in Lake Huron, near 
the main land, some fourteen 
miles north and east of Mack- 
inac. During the season a 
staunch little steamer affords 
daily communication. These 
islands are of all sizes, and the 
tortuous, deep channels between 
' them are, as one of the old French chroniclers said, not merely the 
feeding-grounds, but the very home of the game fish of the lakes. 
Bass, perch, maskalonge, Mackinac trout, pickerel, and pike, of the 
largest size, fairly swarm throughout these waters. It is, too, an ideal 
region for canoeing and sailing, and there is good hunting on the main- 
land. On a fine site on Marquette Island the Les Cheneaux Club has 
built a large club-house and cottages for the accommodation of their 
members and friends. A few miles distant is the Elliott (loo). 

Bois Blanc Island lies south of Mackinac, and is separated from it 
by a narrow strait. It is much larger than Mackinac, but less elevated 
and picturesque. It possesses, however, points of interest of its own, 
and should be visited by the tourist to this region. At Point aux Pins, 
on the southern side, opposite Cheboygan, a summer resort association, 
having its offices in Jackson, Mich., have built a club-house and cot- 
tages. (The Pines, loo.) 

Sault Ste. Marie, now a city of rapidly increasing prosperity, lies 
on the south bank of the river of that name, which forms the outlet of 
Lake Superior, and a part of the boundary line between the United 
States and Canada. Here the government has constructed for the ship 
canal around the rapids, a new lock more than 500 feet long, the 
largest in the world. In fact the entire canal is being deepened 
and enlarged, at a cost of $5,000,000. The river, sixty miles long 
from lake to lake, is environed by high hills, and forms a succession 
of beautiful straits and broad lakes. (Hotels: Iroquois, 100; Michigan 
Exchange, 100; Chippewa, 50; Perry, 50; McEvoy, 50.) 

Marquette, the port of the great iron region of Michigan, is well 



16 

located on the slopes of a fine and picturesque harbor of Lake Superior. 
Besides the interesting iron-ore docks and vessels, and the neighboring 
iron mines, pleasant excursions may be made to Grand Island, Pictured 
Rocks, Carp River, Dead River, and Chocolate River, all of which 
afford good trout fishing. (Hotels: New Clifton, 60; Marquette, 150; 
Summit, 150; Brunswick, 100.) 

Houghton and Hancock are situated upon opposite sides of Portage 
Lake, which separates Keweenaw Point from the mainland. They lie 
in the heart of the great copper region, not far from the famous Calumet 
and Hecla mine, which will well repay a visit. The surrounding 
scenery is very picturesque, too, and Douglas Falls may be mentioned 
in particular. (Hotels at Houghton: Douglas House, 200; Butterfield, 
100; Pfifers, 100. At Hancock: The Northwestern, 60.) 

St. Ignace, opposite Mackinac, is the site of an old Jesuit mission 
and the burial-place of Marquette, whose body was escorted there by a 
hundred canoes of Indian warriors. (Sherwood, 150; Russell House, 
100; Dunham House, 50.) It is the terminus of the Duluth, South Shore 
& Atlantic Railway, whose trains cross the straits on a steel transfer 
steamer of great power, and connect with the Michigan Central at 
Mackinaw City. This line runs to Sault Ste. Marie, and 400 miles 
west to Marquette, Houghton, and Duluth. It traverses a region 
noted for its hunting and fishing, and for its mines of iron and copper. 
A few miles from Munising Station are the famous Pictured Rocks of 
Lake Superior. 

Mackinaw City is located near the point of the lower peninsula, not 
far from the site of Old Fort Michilimackinac, whose garrison was mas- 
sacred by Pontiac in 1763. It is little more than the northern terminus 
of the Michigan Central and Grand Rapids & Indiana railroads, and is 
connected with Mackinac Island and St. Ignace by steam ferries. (Hotel 
Wentworth, 50; Stimpson House, 50; Palace Hotel, 25; Mackinaw City 
House, 25.) 

Topinabee, twenty-eight miles south of Mackinaw City, on the 
Michigan Central, is the site of the Northern Hay Fever Resort Asso- 
ciation. The grounds form a natural park, rising in terraces from 
Mullet Lake, covered with timber and carpeted with evergreen, arbutus, 
and sweet fern. It is one of the best points for rod-fishing — bass, pick- 
erel, maskalonge, and whitefish being abundant in the lakes, with good 




trout and grayling streams near 
at hand. A delightful trip, not 
to be omitted, is by the steamers 
Romeo and Juliet of the "In- 
land Route," running from Che- 
boygan, up the river and 
through Mullet Lake, landing 
at Topinabee for dinner at 
Pike's excellent hotel; thence 
through the tortuous mazes of 
Indian River, Burt Lake, Crooked River, and Crooked Lake to Oden 
(Atherton Inn, 200), whence a dummy train takes the tourist to 
Petoskey in ample time to dress for supper. The return to Mackinac 
Island may be made by the Grand Rapids & Indiana Railroad, or by 
the same steamers and route the next day. (Pikes Hotel, 50; J. 
Forbes' Boarding House, 15.) 

Petoskey, another noted hay fever and summer resort, is beautifully 
located at the head of Little Traverse Bay, which is inclosed by elevated 
table-lands and hills that approach the water in a succession of terraces, 
forming a natural amphitheater. Petoskey has a national reputation, 
and has grown to be quite a city. The beautiful scenery, clear air, pure 
water, pine forests, and facilities for boating, fishing, and bathing, make 
it a natural sanitarium and a delightful summer resort. (Arlington, 300; 
Cushman, 150; Occidental, 75; National, 80; Clifton, 50; Exchange, 50.) 
Bay View is a mile north of Petoskey. It is the property of the Mich- 
igan Camp Ground Association of the M. E. Church, and an annual 
meeting is held here every July and August. On the 360 acres, over 
300 cottages nestle in the terraced groves overlooking the bay, 
besides a good hotel for the visiting public. The assembly, which is in 
session three or four weeks, is an aggregation of summer schools on the 
Chautauqua plan, and has proved very successful, its capacity being 
taxed to the utmost to accommodate the thousands of cultured visitors 
who come from the East, the South, and the West, to enjoy its advan- 
tages. (Bay View House, 100; Howard House, 100.) 

Harbor Springs, Harbor Point, We-que-ton-sing, and Roaring Brook 
are delightful and prosperous summer resorts on the northern shore of 
Little Traverse Bay, the former containing an old church of the Ottawa 



17 



Mission which was founded by Pere INIarquette 200 years ago. Each 
6i these resorts has a good hotel, in addition to the numerous cottages 
of the various associations, and all are connected with Petoskey by 
numerous trains and hourly ferryboats. 

Charlevoix is eighteen miles southwest of Petoskey on high bluffs 
overlooking Lake Michigan on both sides of Pine River. Steamers ply 
daily to Petoskey and to Traverse City. The Chicago and Charlevoix 
summer resorts are on the shores of Round and Pine lakes, a little back 
from Lake Michigan, into which they empty. The Boyne and Jordan 
rivers, capital trout streams, emj^ty into Pine Lake. (The New Belvi- 
dere, 150.) 

Traverse City is at the head of Grand Traverse Bay, a beautiful 
sheet of water, surrounded by high wooded bluffs and fine fruit farms. 
The hotel accommodations are excellent, and so are the facilities for 
driving, boating, and fishing. The east and west arms of Grand Trav- 
erse Bay, Little Traverse Bay, and Elk, Round, Torch, Pine, Carp, and 
Bear lakes form an aggregation of waterways of peculiar beaut}^ of envi- 
ronment well adapted to summer resort purposes. Only two or three 
miles distant is Traverse Beach, on the shore of the bay, an ideal and 
most delightful resort, elevated, and sloping down to Cedar Lake at the 
westward. It is well-improved and admirably kept. Steamers ply every 
weekday between Traverse City and Mackinac Island, touching at 
Northport, Charlevoix, Petoskey, Harbor Springs, and other lake ports. 
Forest Lodge, Fountain Point, Omena, Edgewood, Traverse Point, 
Ne-ah-ta-wanta, Old ]\Iission, and Torch Lake are all summer re- 
sorts of merit near by, or 
reached from Traverse 
City. (Park Place, 250; 
Occidental, 60 ; Board- 
man River, 50.) 

Grayling is a thriving 
lumbering town on the 
Michigan Central, ninety 
miles south from Macki- 
naw City, in the most 
elevated portion of the 
lower peninsula, and 




18 

surrounded by lovely scenery. (Hotel in station; Graj-ling House.) It 
is, too, in the center of a very fine hunting and fishing region, the 
woods away from the railroad containing an abundance of game, and 
the headwaters of the Grayling and ^Manistee rivers and their affluents 
being full of trout and grayling. But a few miles distant are Houghton 
and Higgins lakes, two of the largest in Michigan, romantic in scenery 
and swarming with fine game fish. (Grayling House, 30; Michigan 
Central Hotel, 20; Benton House, 20.) 

SOUTHERN MICHIGAN. 

Diamond Lake, 108 miles from Chicago, is on the Air Line Division, 
two miles beyond Cassopolis. It is not only one of the most attractive, 
but one of the best resorts within easy distance of Chicago. Business 
men can go out Saturday afternoon and return Monday morning after a 
day's rest in the cool shade of the beautiful forest trees and a row or a 
sail on the lovely lake around its emerald isle. Fishing is good and the 
water is not too cold to make bathing delightful. (Goodman House, 
Cassopolis, 50; Forest Hall, 75; Jones House, 30.) 
Sister Lakes, ten miles from Dowagiac (106 
miles from Chicago, on the main line), is 
beautifully located on an elevated peninsula 
covered with fine shade trees, under which are 
grouped numerous cottages affording a home- 
like privacy. The hotel and cottages are well 
and comfortably furnished, the facilities for outdoor 
sport excellent, and the cuisine admirable. (Elkton Hotel, 40; Commer- 
cial Hotel, 20, both at Dowagiac; Sisters Lake Hotel, 40.) 

Lake Cora is nine miles from Lawton (126 miles from Chicago), 
whence it is reached by the narrow gauge Toledo & South Haven Road, 
the little train landing its passengers directly at the comfortable hotel, 
which, with its neighboring cottages, is built upon a pine-covered 
eminence overlooking the lake. The lake itself is a pretty little sheet of 
water, abounding in bass, and other little lakes sit in the hollows of the 
land near by. It is a charming and healthful summering place in the 
midst of a fine fruit region. (Peninsula Hotel, 100. Address Morrill 
& Ihling, Lake Cora, Mich.) 





19 



Battle Creek, " a city of beauty and 
of business culture and conscience," 
is beautifully located on the main 
line of the Michigan Central, 
1 60 miles east of Chicago. It 
is chiefly noted for its Medical 
and Surgical Sanitarium, the 
^ largest in the world, whose 
handsome and extensive build- 
ings dominate the city from an eleva- 
tion of 500 feet, and for an unusually equable and salubrious climate, 
its death-rate being remarkably low. The buildings accommodate 400 
patients and half as many physicians, nurses, and bath attendants. 
The sanitarium has little of the aspect popularly attributed to such 
institutions ; with its beautiful and extensive grounds it resembles 
more a popular resort, and life there is cheerful and enjoyable. It 
is handsomely and comfortably furnished, and is thoroughly supplied 
with every appliance that the most advanced medical, surgical, and 
hygienic skill has devised. Address Dr. J. H. Kellogg, Superintendent. 
(Williams House, 100; Halliday House, 75.) 

Ypsilanti, a neat little city, but thirty miles west of Detroit on the 
main line of the Michigan Central, is noted for its Normal School, its 
extensive flour, paper, and other mills, and for its valuable saline springs 
and excellent sanitarium. The sanitarium is a large three-stor}^ build- 
ing, with some sixty sleeping rooms and numerous mineral and other 
bath rooms, and the various offices and other necessary apartments. 
(Address George Moorman.) The waters 
of the Owens Mineral Well, as well 
as the salts and other preparations 
derived from it, is extensively ; 

shipped to all parts of the 
country. (Hawkins House, 
75 ; Occidental Hotel, 40.) 
Mt. Clemens, a hand- 
some town of 4,000 people, is 
but twenty miles from Detroit, 
on the Grand Trunk. The 




20 

Egnew Hotel, with its cheerful rooms, spacious parlors, wide verandas, 
and agreeable surroundings, is a most acceptable abiding place for the 
invalid in search of health and the seeker for rest and pleasure. The 
bath-house connected with the original ]\It. Clemens mineral springs 
is new, and has a capacity for accommodating 400 patients daily. This 
is one of the most modern, attractive, and complete bathing establish- 
ments in the United States ; ably managed, and assisted by a corps 
of thoroughly competent physicians and attendants, who give strict 
attention to the comforts and wants of patients. All forms of bath are 
administered that can be given with these waters, the most modern 
appliances being employed, and large cooling rooms are provided with 
every convenience, where the bather may recline and rest with pleasure. 
Rheumatic, catarrhal, skin, and female diseases, blood and mineral 
poisoning, and diseases of the digestive organs, have been successfully 
treated. For full information as to rates, etc., address E. R. Egnew, 
proprietor. 

St. Clair Springs, the most widely known and popular watering- 
place in Michigan, is pleasantly located on the west bank of the St. 
Clair River, about halfway between lakes St. Clair and Huron. It is 
easy of access from Detroit, either by steamboat or by through car over 
the Grand Trunk and ]\Iichigan Central, and from the East by the Boston 
& Albany and New York Central to Buffalo, and thence by the Michigan 
Central to Detroit, or by the St. Clair Division from St. Thomas on the 
main line. The walks and drives in the vicinity are very pleasant, and 
there is no end to the boating and sailing on the noble river, which 
atfords splendid fishing. But a few miles south are the St. Clair Flats, 
famous for the unrivaled duck shooting. The Oakland (400) is a fine, 
large hotel, admirably kept, on the river bank near the station, and 
is open to guests the year round. The river and lake steamers and 
the ferryboat from Courtright land at the hotel wharf. The waters 
of St. Clair mineral spring, connected with the hotel, are of the same 
general class as the German saline spas, so rare in this country, but 
more powerful than most of them. The baths, hot or cold, are no less 
dehghtful than curative, and result in physical vigor that gives new zest 
to life. (See advertisement). 

Alma, seventy-six miles northeast of Grand Rapids, on the Detroit, 
Lansing & Northern, is famous for its sanitarium, its bromide mineral 



21 

water, and the Wright House. The Alma Sanitarium Company have 
spared no expense in making this institution strictly first-class in every 
particular. Its magnificent building of brick and stone incorporates all 
modern improvements and conveniences. All forms of treatment are 
employed, and it possesses great attractions as an ideal rest and 
restorative resort. The Alma bromo mineral water is the strongest 
bromide water in the world, and is efficacious in the relief of rheuma- 
tism, skin and kidney diseases. The Wright House is a capital 
hotel, onh' one block from the sanitarium, and is furnished and run in 
the most liberal and attractive manner. The guests of the Wright 
House have all the j)rivileges of the sanitarium. Both of these houses 
are open all the year round. (See advertisement. ) 

St. Louis, three miles be^'ond Alma, is chiefly noted for its natural 
magnetic mineral springs, which are both curious and valuable, having 
proved ver}" efficacious in many diseases. The Park House is both a 
sanitarium and hotel, and has a wide reputation, being well conducted 
in both respects. 

Orion Lake, forty miles north of Detroit, on the Bay City division 
of the Michigan Central, is a beautiful sheet of water covering 1,700 
acres, and surrounded by rolling farm lands, the summer home of many 
of the best families of Detroit. The village of Orion, on its eastern 
shore, affords good hotel and boarding facilities. (Park House, 50; 
Courtney House, 30; Bellevue Hotel, 100; Hemingway's Boarding 
House, 15; Edgerton's Boarding House, 15.) 

St. Joseph and Benton Harbor, with a combined population of some 
12,000, lie upon opposite sides of the St. Joseph River, which is here 
joined by the Paw PaAv and empties into Lake INIichigan. They are 
ninety-five miles from Chicago, on the Chicago & West jMichigan Rail- 
way, romantically situated, with pleasant drives in every direction, 
through a wonderfully productive fruit region. The waters of Eastman 
Springs, close to Benton Harbor, possess valuable medicinal qualities, 
and the rom.antic streams and the lake afford unlimited inducements 
for boating, bathing, fishing, gunning, and idling. (Whitcomb, Lake 
View, and Hotel St. Joseph at St. Joseph; Higbee House and Benton at 
Benton Harbor.) 

Macatawa Park and Ottawa Beach lie upon opposite sides of the har- 
bor outlet of ]Macatawa Bay. A branch of the Chicago & West Michigan 



22 



RaihA-ay terminates at Ottawa Beach at the foot of the steps leading to 
the hotel, which has been enlarged and improved. The park is on a 
narrow peninsula between the bay and the lake, rising some 200 feet 
above the water, and mostly covered by the original forest. A good 
hotel is on the premises. Steamboats ply to Holland, six miles up the 
bay, and ample facilities are of course afforded for outdoor sports. 




THE CAMPUS OF THE UNIVERSITY OF MICHIGAN. 



NIAGARA FALLS. 

The widely- traveled, judicial-minded, and 
discriminating Anthony TroUope penned the 
deliberate opinion: "Of all the 
sights on this earth of ours 
which tourists travel to see, I 
am inclined to give the palm to 
the Falls of Niagara. I know 
no other one thing so beautiful, 
so glorious, and so powerful 

* * * At Niagara there is ''1:^ ^^^ggsm^^ 

that fall of waters alone. But *. -; - 

that fall is more graceful than 
Giotto's Tower, more noble than ^ 
the Apollo. The peaks of the ,^ _ 

Alps are not so astounding in 

their solitude. The valleys of the Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less 
green. The finished glaze of life in Paris is less invariable and the full 
tide of trade round the Bank of England is not so inexorably powerful." 

The one and only " Niagara Falls Route" is the Michigan Central, 
for it is the only railroad running to Niagara Falls, Ontario, and to 
Niagara Falls, New York; the only railroad that runs directly by and in 
full view of the falls; the only railroad that crosses the river gorge on 
the steel cantaliver bridge in full view of the falls on one side and the 
rapids on the other ; and the only railroad that affords from its trains 
the most comprehensive view of the great cataract and its environment 
to be had from a single point. 

Falls View, where the INIichigan Central trains from Chicago and 
Detroit reach the Niagara River and stop five minutes for passengers to 
disembark and enjoy from the elevated station the magnificent view, 
is 509 miles from Chicago, and some hundred and fifty feet above and 
directly overlooking the Queen Victoria Park and the Horseshoe Fall. 
When first seen, the view of the falls themselves is apt to be disap- 
pointing, for looking down from above and nearly two miles along the 
extended line of the two falls the height is dwarfed, and it is only by 

23 



24 




repeated views and 
the gradual compre- 
hension of the numer- 
ous details, that the 
height and volume of 
the great cata- 
ract is appreci- 
ated. The posi- 
tion of the spec- 
tator is so elevated 
that Liie eye takes a very wide 
range over the great amphitheater 
before him, ranging far up the great expanse of 
foaming rapids to the clear, broad reaches of the river above, 
u' over the tremendous torrent at his feet to the green islands 

beyond, into the abyss below, and past the white wall of the American 
fall to the wooded parks of the State Reservation and the slender span 
of the suspension foot and carriage bridge thrown across the rock-walled 
gorge. 

But, grand as this view is, one sees but a single aspect of the great 
cataract, and the tourist should spend at Niagara Falls as much time as 
possible, with the assurance that the more 
he sees of its innumerable details 
from different points of view 
and under varied conditions 
of sky, wind, and atmos- 
phere, the more will its 
beauty and majesty grow 
upon his appreciation. 

Niagara Falls, Onta- 
rio, is a short distance 
north of Falls View. A 
steep paved street leads 
down from the station to 
the Clifton House (300), the 
only hotel on the Canadian 
side, finely located on the 




'^'•n^^y 



25 

bluff opposite the American fall, and in front of the main entrance to the 
Queen Victoria Niagara Falls Park. It was the magnificent view of the 
falls from this point that formed the subject of Sir Edwin Arnold's most 
vivid and brilliant letters to the London Telegraph. 

Directh'past the Clifton House and through the Park runs the electric 
line of the Niagara Falls Park and River Railway, extending along the 
river bank from Chippewa to Queenston, and affording from its open 
cars beautiful views of the upper rapids and falls, the w^hirlpool, the 
lower gorge and outlet of the river from points hitherto practically 




inaccessible. The magnificent panorama from Queenston Heights is 
one of remarkable beauty. 

Clifton, two miles down the river, is at the end of the steel cantaliver 
bridge of the INIichigan Central, and the junction of the main line with 
the Niagara division running to Niagara-on-the-Lake. (See page 68.) 

The Cantaliver Bridge, one of the most famous triumphs of engi- 
neering skill and daring, is gio feet in length, and nearly 250 feet above 
" the angriest bit of water in the world." It is one of the strongest and 
safest bridges in the country. In crossing it the passenger has a fine 
view of the falls upon one side and the whirlpool rapids— scarcely less 
wonderful — on the other. These rapids are reached at the water edge, 




on both sides of the 
river, by means of ele- 
vators on the face of 
the cHff ; but the view 
from the American side 
is considered the finest. 
A mile or so below Clif- 
ton is the whirlpool, 
where the river near 
its ancient outlet has cut 
a new channel through the 
rock at right angles to its 
former course. 

Suspension Bridge 
is at the American 
end of the cantaliver. 
Here the INIichigan 
Central meets the 
Falls division of the 
New York Central, 
running to Rochester 
via Lockport. The New 
York Central runs, in summer, open observation cars down the Niagara 
gorge to Lewiston, below which, at the mouth of the river, stands old 
Fort Niagara, an interesting relic of the war of 1S12, and still garrisoned 
by United States troops. 

Niagara Falls, New York, is two miles south of Suspension Bridge. 
The city, however, includes Suspension Bridge, and contains numerous 
manufactures, fine residences, and great hotels. Here, too, is the State 
Reservation, by means of which the State of New York has freed from 
the greed of private gain and restored to their natural beauty the shore 
and islands of the river. Goat Island, the Sister Islands, and Luna 
Island are delightful loitering places, and afford beautiful and varied 
views of the rapids and the falls. Indeed, one misses many of the pecu- 
liar charms of this locality if he fails to stroll through the shady aisles of 
the primeval forest of Goat Island, or to sit under the gnarled cedars of 
the Sister Islands, watching the waters dash swiftly by, and listening to 

26 



27 



the musical cadences of the neighboring cascades, relieving the thunder- 
ous monotone of the more distant falls. 

It is from Goat Island, too, that the tourist crosses over to Luna Island 
and descends the spiral staircase leading to the Cave of the Winds; while 
from the opposite angle he descends to Terrapin Rocks, where formerly 
stood the old tower, and where Trollope bids you " sit till all the outer 
world is lost to you. There is no grander spot about Niagara than this. 
That which at first was only great and beautiful becomes gigantic and 
sublime, till the mind is at a loss to find an epithet for its own use." 

Recrossing to the main line, by the bridge over the American rapids, 
you find in the State Reservation an inclined railway that takes you to 
the foot of the American fall. Near by is the dock of the Maid of the 
M/st, a stanch little boat that struggles against the mighty current, 
past the front of the American fall and rocky palisade of Goat Island, 
into the surging vortex below the great Horseshoe, where she turns as 
if exhausted and flies down 



harbor at the 
cliff, on the 



stream to her 
foot of the 
Canada side. 

A little way below the 
boat-landing on the Amer- 
ican side is the outlet of. 
the great tunnel, twenty- 
nine feet wide by eighteen 
feet in height, forming 
a part of the greatest 
piece of hydraulic engi- 
neering in the world. 
The tunnel is cut through 
the solid rock at a depth 
of 200 feet below the city 
from a point a mile and 
a quarter above the falls, 
where the intake diverts 
into the shaft but an in- 
appreciable proportion 
of the river, which yet 



^ 




28 



produces through the great turbine wheels, the largest ever constructed, 
a maximum of a hundred and fifty thousand horse-power. This great 
power is giving a wonderful impetus to manufactures in the vicinity and 
is expected to be carried electrically to Tonawanda, Buffalo, Lockport, 
and even more distant points. 

The extortionate charges at Niagara Falls, usually very much exag- 
gerated, have been almost wholly abated. Hack fares are governed by 
a strictly enforced ordinance, and, by making a bargain with the driver, 
less than the legal rates can frequently be obtained. Carriages can be 
obtained of the Miller & Brundage Coach Company at fixed and very 
reasonable rates. Park vans make the round of the State Reservation 
for 25 cents — Goat Island only 15 cents — and passengers may alight at 
any number of points and continue the trip by a subsequent vehicle. 
On the American side, however, most people, if strong and healthy, 
will prefer walking. The trip on the Maid of iJic Mist costs 50 cents; 
the visit to the Cave of the Winds, including waterproof and guides, 
$1; the descent to the bottom of the Horseshoe Fall on the Canada side, 
50 cents; and the descent by elevator to the Whirlpool Rapids, 50 cents. 
Anyone who is swindled at Niagara Falls should not visit any large 
city or popular resort without a guardian. 

The principal hotels at Niagara Falls, N. Y., are the Cataract, accom- 
modating 400; International, 350; Prospect, 100 (see adv.); Kaltenbach, 
100; Imperial, 125; Porter, 100. 




CENTRAL NEW YORK. 



This region is characterized by a number 
of long and comparatively narrow and deep 
lakes left by the glaciers of former days, sur- 
rounded by more or less precipitous and | f ; 
thickly wooded banks, with excel- v ''" 

lent drives through A ~r"' 



Ti-mti 



ifitfi 





a prosperous farm- 
ing country. 

Buffalo, the 
eastern terminus 
of the ]Michigan 

Central, where it -^^"^--j ■^.'t'-?^r^' ^ i" ». -i 
connects in a union depot a\ ith the great lour-tiaek Xe\A- \' 
Hudson River Railroad, and also with the West Shore and other diverg- 
ing lines, is 536 miles east of Chicago. It has a population of 350,000, 
and is the third city in the State. It is handsomely built at the foot of 
Lake Erie, has an extensive lake and rail commerce, large manufactures, 
gigantic grain elevators, and a fine system of parks and boulevards. It 
is, too, a city of wealth, culture, and refinement, and of great historic 
interest. The drives about the city and its suburbs are excellent and 
interesting, and the extensive views of Lake Erie and Niagara River 
from the high bluffs in the southern part of the cit}' are very beautiful. 
(Principal hotels : The Niagara, Iroquois, Tifft, Genesee, Brozel, and 
Mansion.) 

Canandaigua, at the outlet of Canandaigua Lake, is on the Auburn 
division of the New York Central, twenty-nine miles from Rochester. 
It has about 6,000 inhabitants, and is celebrated for its picturesque 
scenery and the elegance of its private residences. The lake is sixteen 
miles long, narrow and deep. It abounds in fish, and the high lands 
bordering the lake are covered by numerous vineyards. 

Geneva, also on the Auburn road, fifty-one miles from Rochester, is 
at the foot of Seneca Lake, ujjon which steamers ply to Watkins Glen, 
near the head. This lake is thirty-five miles long, very deep, and never 
freezes over. (Franklin, Kirkwood.) 



30 

Watkins Glen is a deep gorge in the lake bluff, some Soo feet high, 
through which tumbles a mountain brook. The glen is about three miles 
in length, and embraces a succession of interesting and picturesque 
scenes of generally similar character to those of the less known Au 
Sable and Chateaugay chasms. (Hotels: Lake View, Glen Brook, Glen 
Mountain, Jefferson, and Fall Brook.) 

Clifton Springs is also on the Auburn road, ten miles from Canan- 
daigua. It is a popular and much frequented resort. The sulphurous 
waters are very valuable in bilious and cutaneous diseases. (Hotels: 
Clifton Sanitarium and Foster House.) 

Saratoga Springs, the most popular and fashionable resort on the 
continent, is twenty-two miles fr(^m Schenectady and thirty-eight miles 
from Albany, on the " D. & H." The vihage, which is exceedingly 
beautiful, has a resident population of 12,000, and a summer popu- 
lation often of five times that number. It claims, with much jus- 
tice, to offer more attractions than any other watering-place in the 
world, and is charmingly located, surrounded by beautiful scenery. 
There are twenty-eight springs in the village, no two precisely alike; 
the hotels are colossal and magnificent (the Grand Union has 2,000 
beds, the United States nearly as many, and Congress Hall a thou- 
sand), the boarding houses numerous and excellent, and the facilities 
for amusement illimitable. The walks and drives are full of interest; 
that to the beautiful Saratoga Lake, four miles distant, over a fine mac- 
adamized road, divided in the center by a row of shade trees, being the 
most noted. 

A narrow-gauge railroad, ten miles long, runs to the summit of Mount 
McGregor, which affords extended views of the valley of the Hudson 
and the battlefields of Bemis Heights and Saratoga. 

From Saratoga Springs the " D. & H." runs northward, crossing the 
Hudson at Fort Edward, whence a branch diverges via Glens Falls to 
Caldwell, at the head of Lake George. From the pretty town that 
clusters about the great Fort William Henry Hotel, built on the site of 
the historic oldfortificaition, steamers descend this loveliest of lakes, "the 
silvery Horicon," to Baldwin, the terminus of another branch which 
rejoins the main line at Fort Ticonderoga on Lake Champlain. From 
this point the " D. & H." skirts the shore of the lake northward to 
Westport, Plattsburg, and Rouse's Point. (See page 40.^ 



THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 





Cape Vincent, 236 miles 
from Niagara Falls by 
the Rome, Watertown 
.'ifi ^ || |p | M |^ ^ | ^ B^^' 6L' Ogdensburg Railroad. 

^' ' is situated at the outlet 

of Lake Ontario into the 
St. Lawrence River. Di- 
rectly opposite on the Canada shore is the 
handsome city of Kingston, and between the two 
lie AVolfe and Carleton islands, about which may 
be found some of the finest fishing in the Thousand 
Island region. Cape Vincent possesses many attrac- 
tions as a summer resort, and its hotel accommoda- 
tions are exceptionally good. (The St. Lawrence, 
•50; Rathburn, 150; Union, 40.) 
Clayton, fourteen miles farther down the river, is the ter- 
minus of the main line of the Rome, Watertown & Ogdensburg Railroad. 
The steamboat express, connecting with the Michigan Central's Atlantic 
Express, arrives here early in the morning in time to connect with the 
magnificent river steamers for Montreal and intermediate points. The 
train connecting with the Michigan Central's Fast Eastern Express 
arrives here in the evening and connects with steamers for all Thousand 
Island points. Clayton is situated directly in front of the upper group of 
the Thousand Islands and is a delightful place of resort. Fine fishing 
is found in the vicinity, and small steamers ply at frequent intervals to 
Round Island Park and Westminster Park on Wellesley Island and to 
Alexandria Bay. It is in fact the gateway to the Thousand Islands for 
a summer population of more than 50,000 people who seek health and 
recreation in this wonderful region. (The Hubbard, 100; Walton, 100; 
West End, 80; Frontenac, on Round Island, 250; Grenell Island House, 
50; Thousand Island Park, 225.) 

Alexandria Bay is twelve miles down the river from Clayton and is 
also on the New York shore. It is well called " the Saratoga of the St. 

31 



32 

Lawrence, "as it is the popular center of its fashionable life. Its immense 
hotels, furnished with every luxury, overlook the beautiful bay and the 
powerful green river, with its array of islands of every size and shape, 
crowned with summer villas of every degree of magnificence and pre- 




tension, from the great Castle Rest of George M. Pullman to the modest 
tiny cottage. The river here is covered with craft of every kind and the 
gay summer crowd flows and sails in every direction. Night comes not 
with a solemn husli and quiet, but the music of bands, the strains of 
orchestras, the sound of song and merry dancers, and the innumerable 
brilliant lights of every hue, make the scene as lively and inspiring as 
by day. Eight miles southeast are the Lakes of Theresa, noted for the 
rare minerals of their shores and islands and for their good i^shing and 
romantic scenery. Nearly opposite Alexandria Bay is the entrance to 
the famous Lake of the Isles, beyond Westminster Park. (Thousand 
Island House, 500; Crossmon, 250; Jefferson, 50; Central Park, 75; 
Westminster, on Wellesley Island, 150; Marsden, 50.) 

Ogdensburg, thirtj'-two miles 
below Alexandria Bay, is the 
terminus of another branch 
^ of the R., W. & O. "The 
Maple City," as it is called, is 
beautifully located at the mouth 
of the Oswegatchie, whose brown flood 
pours into the St. Lawrence in singular 
contrast to the clear, green waters of the 
latter, with which for a long distance 
the}' refuse to mingle. 




33 

Massena Springs is the terminus of the main line of the R.,W. & O. 

R. R., thirteen miles beyond Norwood and 300 miles from Niagara Falls. 
The village is situated on the banks of Grass River, twelve miles from 
the St. Lawrence. The springs themselves, five in number, and difiering 
in their constituents and medical properties, are a mile distant on 
Raquette River. The scenery is attractive and the facilities for boating 
and fishing excellent. (Hatfield, 200; White's, 80; Harrowgate, 40.) 

The Rapids of the St. Lawrence begin but a few miles below 
Ogdensburg and Prescott. Les Gallopes and the Rapide de Plat, the 
first of the series, are not particularly exciting, but serve as preludes to 
the greater ones below. 

Leaving Dickinson's Landing the steamer turns into the swift cur- 
rent, and a mile ahead may be seen the white stormy waters of the long 
Sault stretching from shore to shore. There is a sudden cessation of 
the engine's pulsations and we feel the strength of the current. We 
enter the vast expanse of broken waters, and, glancing at the shore, 
note the great rapidity of our passage. In front is a vast billow, seem- 
ingly motionless as a wall, of the beautiful deep emerald hue we noted 
at Niagara, and we hold our breath as the steamer cleaves its way, only 
to meet a second, a third, and a fourth beyond it. There are several 
miles of swift water yet to come, but the passage of the raging billows 
of the rapids is over in three minutes. 

Eleven miles below Dickinson's we pass Cornwall, the terminus of 
the ship canal around the rapids, and four miles farther, on the right 
bank, we see the Indian village of St. Regis, bisected by the interna- 
tional boundary line, and take our leave of the United States. Dinner 
is announced as the steamer emerges on the broad Lake St. Francis, 
twenty-five miles in length. On leaving it, we dash down the Coteau 
Rapids, two miles long; the Cedars, three miles; the Split Rock, most 
formidable of all these, and the cascades. Then we cross the twelve 
miles of Lake St. Louis, into which are poured the muddy waters of the 
Ottawa, at the head of the Island of Montreal. 

From Lachine we see the bold outlines of Mount Royal against the 
sky, and the snowy breastwork of the Lachine Rapids across our path. 
Opposite the Iroquois village of Caughnawaga the paddles cease to 
revolve and the Indian pilot climbs on board from his bateau and takes 
command at the wheel. Down the steep declivity of foam, with rocks 



u 



and reefs and sunken ledges in front and on eithei nand, we plunge 
with an arrow's speed. This side and that the steamer swerves and 
sweeps, escaping destruction time and again by a hair's breadth. At 
last, as we glide under the great Victoria tubular bridge, above the city, 
we release the tension of nerves and muscles, and marvel at the skill 
and courage that have guided us safely through the perils of the descent. 




The danger, however, is much more apparent than real, for no accidents 
have ever happened. 

Montreal (see page 69) is reached in time to connect at the same 
wharf with steamer at Quebec, and thence to the magnificently wild 
and grand scenery of the Saguenay; but there are few travelers who do 
not prefer to stop over in the Canadian metropolis and enjoy the in- 
teresting life and scenes of the city and its vicinity. 



THE ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS. 



This great wilderness of mountain and val- 
ley, lake and forest, within a few hours' ride 
of the most populous eastern cities, was, 
within a few years, very difficult of access 
and but little explored. New York has 
recently made it a State Reservation or 
Park. Lines of rail surround it, sending 
-"^x:. out here and there little branches to pierce 
its fastnesses, while the echoes of its soli- 
tudes are awakened by the rumble of the 
great old-fashioned stage-coaches on its 
mountain roads. The mountains rise from 
' a plateau some 2,000 feet above sea-level, 
extending for 150 miles between Lakes 
George and Champlain, and the St. Law- 
rence River. There are more than five 
hundred mountains in this region, wild and 
savage, and covered with primitive forests, 
save the highest peaks, whose rocky summits rise above the tree-line, 
and are covered only by mosses, grasses, and dwarf alpine plants. The 
loftiest of these is Mount Tahawus, rising 5,337 feet above the sea-level. 
In the valleys between lie more than a thousand lakes and ponds, " all 
lovely and romantic in everything except their 
names, and the scenery they offer in combi- 
nation with the towering mountains and the 
old savage forest is not surpassed on 
earth," resembling, in its natural 




features, that of Switzerland 
and the Scottish Highlands. 
These lakes are connected by 
an intricate system of water- 
courses, enabling the canoeist, 

by more or less frequent "carries, "to traverse the whole 

35 





36 



region. Deer and other game are 
abundant, and salmon trout and 
brook trout swarm in the waters. 
(See Stoddard's or Wallace's 
£ .? Guide to the Adirondack s.) 

I f\ ^^^^^^81 The new line, the Adirondack 

Division of the New York Cen- 
tral, could not have been easily im- 
proved upon, since it either passes 
^ ;^. directly through or furnishes a means of 

easy access to nearly every resort or camping 
place of consequence in the whole Adirondack Region. The scener}' 
along the route is varied and most interesting, including forests, lakes, 
rivers, and mountains, a continuation of attractions having few equals 
in the country. Leaving the main line of the New York Central at 
Utica, we come to 

Trenton Falls, seventeen miles. Through a deep gorge, 350 feet wide, 
Canada Creek flows tumultuously, forming a series of six cascades of 
great beauty, the water falling over 300 feet within three miles. Willis 
wrote of it as "The most enjoyably beautiful spot among the resorts 
of romantic scenery in our country." (Moore's, 100.) Passing White 
Lake and Otter Lake, the Adirondack Wilderness is entered. 

Fulton Chain, fifty-two miles, is a mile and a half from the Old Forge 
steamboat landing (Forge House, 200), where connection is made with 
steamers traversing the first four of the Fulton chain of lakes, and 
thence by carries through the others and over to Raquette Lake, one of 
the largest in the Adirondacks. The shores of Fourth Lake in particu- 
lar, where the tall forest trees, with their mountain background, are 
perfectly reflected in the clear waters, are lined 
with summer camps, usually rustic in 
style, but very comfortable, before 
which, at night, the flames of the 
camp-fires rise. Bald Alountain 
House (100), on Third Lake, and 
Rocky Point Inn (100), and Cedar 
Island Camp (100), at the head of 
Fourth Lake, will be found very 




37 

comfortable, and provided with all the facilities for boating, fishing, 
hunting, etc. Passing Big Moose Lake and Beaver River, the line runs 
for twelve miles through Ne-ha-sa-ne, the magnificent private park of 
Doctor AVebb, running close to Lake Lila, the pearl of Adirondack 
waters, thence by Horseshoe Pond and Pleasant Lake to 

Childwold, loi miles, the station for Childwold Park House (250), on 
Lake Massawepie, about five miles distant. This beautiful lake is the 
head of Grass River, and is noted for its trout fishing and game. The 
hotel is beautifully situated on an elevation overlooking the lake, and 
is not surpassed by any in all this great region. It is w^ell built, lux- 
uriously furnished, and sumptuous in its table and all its appointments. 
The park itself embraces many thousand acres, and is kept as a game 
preserve. 

Tupper Lake Junction, 107 miles (Altamont, 50), is the station for 
Tupper Lake village, eight miles distant (Tupper Lake, 100), and the 
junction with the Northern Adirondack Railroad for Santa Clara, St. 
Regis Falls, and Blue Mountain House. Steamers run on Raquette 
Pond (on which the village of Tupper Lake is situated) and on Big Tupper 
Lake, w^hich is seven miles long and 1,600 feet above the sea. From 
here Tahawus, Whiteface, Seward, and other peaks may be 

seen. At the southern end of Big Tupper Lake, 

Bog River dashes into it over 
a broken ledge in beautiful 
foamy cascades. For fifteen 

miles the railroad runs north- ^- -^^^^mm^''^^'^^^,^^^^ ^^^^ j^ 

easterly through a perfect net- ^'"..'-. nSr^^TT"""" *^'^'^*'' t~.^:z^^^^' 

work of ponds and lakes to " ' " '™*" 

Saranac Inn Station, 122 miles 
from Utica. About a mile distant is 
Saranac Inn (125), one of the oldest and 
still one of the most popular hostelries of this region, 
at the head of Upper Saranac Lake, the shores and islands of which 
are dotted with delightful summer camps, owned mostly by wealthy 
New Yorkers. At the foot of the lake, on which small steamers ply, 
are located Hotel Wawbeek (100), famous for its cuisine, its elegance, 
and its comfort, Saranac Club (75), and Rustic Lodge (40). 

Lake Clear, 125 miles, near the south shore of the beautiful circular 



38 




lake of that name along which 

the line is built. Rice's Hotel 

(loo) is a mile and a half distant, 

on the road to the camps on 

the Upper St. Regis. The 

Saranac branch leaves the 

main line here for 

Saranac Lake, the largest 
village in the Adirondacks, 
with a population of 1,200, and the cen- 
ter of a well-known health-resort region. The lake 
contains between forty and fifty small islands, and was 
called by the Indians the "Lake of the Clustered Stars." 
On its shores are numerous hotels, the chief of which are the Ampersand 
(225), Algonquin (150), Saranac Lake (250), the Berkeley (100), and River- 
side (100). The famous Adirondack Sanitarium, one of the most noted 
and most successful climatic sanitariums in the world, is located a mile 
or two north of the village. The S. L. & L. P. road runs to 

Lake Placid, nine miles distant, at the foot of Whiteface Mountain, 
the crowning glory of this region. On the shores of Lake Placid and 
Mirror Lake are the Stevens (300), Grand View (250), Ruisseaumont(i25), 
Whiteface Inn (150), Lake Placid (100), all first-class and well-kept houses. 
Jackson, the famous landscape photographer, familiar with America's 
grandest scenery, from Alaska to Mexico, said, as he stood by the 
Stevens House, with Lake Placid and Whiteface Mountain on the one 
hand, and Mirror Lake and its background of the great Adirondack 
peaks on the other, that the scene surpassed, in the perfection of its 
beauty, all others that he had ever beheld. From Lake Clear the main 
line runs north to 

Paul Smith's, 131 miles, from 
which the famous old resort 
of that name (500) is but 
four miles distant on 
Lower St. Regis Lake, 
and opposite St. Regis 
Mountain. Four miles „ . 

east of the station is "^^P.jff'W 




^^: 






39 



Bloomingdale, the great elevation of which makes it a great resort for 
sufferers from lung diseases. 

Rainbow Lake, 133 miles, is in the immediate vicinity of a charming 
group of lakes and ponds, and famous for its trout fishing (Rainbow 
Lake House, 60), and 




Lake Kushaqua, 138 miles, is a picturesque and popular camping 
ground, and as wild and picturesque a spot as the most ardent lover of 
nature coiild desire. (Kushaqua Lodge, 80.) 

Loon Lake, 142 miles, is a beautiful sheet of water in the midst of 
fine scenery and good fishing and hunting. On the opposite shore is 
the well-known Loon Lake House (350), three miles by stage. This 
station is also the junction with the Chateaugay Railway for Lyon 
Mountain, Chateaugay and Chazy lakes, and Plattsburg. 

Malone, 167 miles, is a clean, hand- 
some, manufacturing village, the 



junction point with the Central 
Vermont line. (Flanagan, Ho\v- 
ard.) From Malone the line runs 
via Huntingdon and St. Con- 
stant, the through trains of the 
New York Central & Hudson 



I 



v,*«#2:jj«*. "«* 



^^^mmmmi. 




40 

River entering Montreal at the splendid Windsor Street Station in the 
heart of the hotel and business district of the city. 

Chateaugay is on the Central Vermont, forty-eight miles east of Nor- 
wood, where the Chateaugay crosses the railroad on its way to the St. 
Lawrence. A mile and a half north is the famous Chateaugay Chasm. 

North Creek is the southern gateway to the Adirondacks. It is the 
terminus of the Adirondack Railway, sixty miles north of Saratoga, and 
from this station tally-ho coaches run to Blue Mountain Lake. (Hol- 
land's Lake House, 350; Blue Mountain House, 75; Prospect House, 500.) 
Steamboats perform double daily service between the two lakes, passing 
through Eagle and Utowana lakes and down the pretty Marion River, 
the two boats being connected by a "carry," a novel diversion to tourists. 

Schroon Lake is seven miles by stage from Riverside. It is ten 
miles in length and two and a half in width, and is surrounded by lovely 
scenery. From near Pottersville, at the outlet, steamers run to the head 
of the lake, about which the principal hotels are clustered. These are 
the Leland House, 250; Lake House, 100; Grove Point, 75; Arlington. 
30. The Taylor House, 150, is at Lake View Point. 

Westport, on the line of the D. & H., is the chief gateway to the 
Adirondacks from the east. It hes at the head of a bay of Lake Cham- 
plain (Westport Inn, 70). Steamers run to the principal lake ports, and 
tally-ho stage-coaches, over good roads, to Elizabethtown, Keene Valley, 
Adirondack Lodge, Lake Placid, and Saranac Lake, forty-four miles, 
run through magnificent scenery, passing Mount Marcy on the left and 
Whiteface on the right. Principal hotels: Maplewood Inn, Windsor 
and Mansion House, at Elizabethtown; Adirondack House, Tahamus 
House, and St. Hubert's Inn, at Keene Valley; Cascade House and 
Adirondack Lodge, at Cascade ville. 

Port Kent, on the D. & H., is also on the shore of Lake Champlain. 
From here the railroad runs up Au Sable Chasm to Keese ville, on the 
Au Sable River, above the chasm. This chasm is appropriately spoken 
of as a Yosemite in miniature, and is full of interest. (Lake Placid 
House and Chasm House.) 

Plattsburg, on the D. & H., lies near the head of Plattsburg Bay, 
A short distance south is the superb new hotel, the Champlain, on the 
high bluff overlooking the lake. The Chateaugay Railroad runs south- 
west from Plattsburg via Lyon Mountain, to Saranac Lake. 




THE HUDSON RIVER. 

Albany, the capital of the Em- 
pire State, with a population of 
nearly ioo,ooc, is 298 miles east 
of Buffalo. With many great 
manufacturing industries, Albany 
is a live, active, prosperous city, 
and occupies a proud commercial 
position. Rich in its traditions of 
Dutch and English sovereignty, in its 
historic associations with the Revolution, in its literary and scientific 
accumulations, in its magnificent triumph of modern architecture 
and interior decoration that crowns its lofty capitolian hill, and in its 
lovely vistas of the lordly Hudson that bathes its feet, it is full of 
interest to the observant traveler, and worthy of a lengthy halt. 

Passengers to New York can, if desired, here exchange tickets and 
take the day or night steamer down the river. The vessel will be found 
commodious and luxurious, and its meal service, in a fine saloon aft, 
entirely unexceptionable. Continuing our rail journey by the New 
York Central & Hudson River Railroad, we cross the magnificent iron 
bridge and follow the course of the noblest stream in the world through 
a hundred and fifty miles of grand, beautiful, and ever-varying scenes, 
not one of which is uninteresting. At first the river is shallow, filled 
with islands, picturesque with great white groups of ice-houses, bordered 
by broad meadows, and lined with jetties and breakwaters, to confine 
the waters to the channel. We can see the overslaugh, where the Half 
Moon anchored nearly three hundred years ago, and the solid blue masses 
of the Helderbergs, looming up to the westward. Gradually the meadows 
narrow, and the bold headlands rise more abruptly from the water. 

At Hudson, the river has swollen into greater proportions, and we 
gaze upon the strikingly beautiful panorama of the Catskill Mountains 
beyond it. 

Catskill Landing, four miles below, is the point of departure for the 
mountains, and the view of them is varied with every curve in our 

41 



4^ 




course, and every change in the atmospheric conditions. Round Top is 
3,800 feet high, and only eight or nine miles from the landing, whence 
the little railway, with the connecting link of the new Otis Elevating 
Railway, runs to the Kaaterskill House. 

Rhinecliff has a ferry transfer to Rondout and Kingston, whence the 
Ulster & Delaware Railroad penetrates into the very heart of the 
Catskill Mountain region. 

Along the river are old Dutch homesteads; neat, well-tilled, modern 

- farms and costly villas, most of 
which, however, are concealed 
from view by the high bank 
under which the railroad 
is constructed along the 
water's edge. The hills 
rise more lofty on the 
opposite side, and more 
grandly does the river 
flow on between its con- 
fines, or expand into lake- 
like bays. The train halts for 
refreshments at Poughkeepsie, half way from Albany to New York. The 
city is a large and handsome one, built on an elevated plateau, and 
possesses eight important educational institutions, one of which, Vassar, 
is the most noted female college in the world. 

Fishkill is fifteen miles below Poughkeepsie . A steam ferry runs to New- 
burgh, a picturesquely-built city of iS,ooo inhabitants on the west shore, 
where an old gray stone mansion, in which Washington had his head- 
quarters, is still preserved. Just below, the broad expanse of Newburgh 
Bay comes to an end, and we come to the famed highlands of the Hudson, 
entered under the precipices of Beacon Hill and Breakneck, with the 
massive granite crown of Storm King towering opposite, i ,529 feet above 
the water. On the steep side of Bull Hill we see Undercliff , the old resi- 
dence of George P. Morris, and just beyond pass Cold Spring, with its 
famous cannon foundry. Opposite, between Storm King and Crow 
Nest, is the lovely highland Vale of Tempe. We cross Constitution 
Island, near the spot where Arnold and Andre met, and stop a moment 
at Garrison's. 



43 




West Point is across the river. 
For two or three miles, rounding 
the point above where the river 
makes a short turn at right 
angles, we have had a splendid 
view of the great pile of build- 
ings that constitute the National 
Military Academy — its barracks, aca- 
demic hall, library, observatory, etc.; its level parade; Kosciusko's 
Monument, gleaming white under the trees; and Sedgwick's and Scott's, 
of v/hich only glimpses can be caught. Near by Buttermilk Falls 
tumble over the ledges into the river, and way above, on Mount Inde- 
pendence, the crumbling walls of Fort Putnam can still be distinguished. 
Every foot of the way here and onward is historic ground and rich 
with Revolutionary memories. Soon we run through a long tunnel 
under Anthony's Nose, and, emerging into daylight, sweep around the 
head of Peekskill Bay, with the imposing granite heights of the Dunder- 
berg on the opposite point, and lona Island in the sharp bend guard- 
ing the southern portals of the Highlands. The scenes from AYest 
Point and the Dunderberg are magnificent, but the finer views are usually 
to be had from the eastern shore or the deck of the steamer. 

Peekskill, the home and birthplace of Chauncey M. Depew, sees the 
river broaden to an inland lake. The mountains spread apart, culmi- 
nating to the westward in the solid masses of the distant Shawangunks. 
The banks are still rocky, 
but less precipitous, 
and beauty succeeds to 
grandeur. Verplanck's 
Point closes in the 
southern end of Peeks- 
kill Bay, jutting far 
out into the river as if 
to meet Stony Point, 
where Anthony Wayne 
gained his well - won 
fame. Below, Haver- 
straw Bay broadens out 




44 



to majestic proportions, bearing on its bosom as varied and picturesque 
fleets as any waters in the world. Then comes Sing Sing, with its vast 
State Prison; Tarrytown, with its memories of Washington and Andre, 
and Irving; the broad Tappan Zee; the populous suburban city of 
Yonkers; and then, after twenty miles of grand, iinbroken precipice of 
the Palisades, turn from the lordly Hudson to run down the bank of 
Spuyten Duyvel Creek, stopping a moment at the new up-town 
station at 138th Street. 

We have enjoyed such a glorious panorama as the world nowhere 
else affords, and which remains forever in the memory. And we can 
not but believe with Bayard Taylor, that "there is one river which, 
from its source to the ocean, unrolls a long chain of landscapes wherein 
there is no tame feature, but each successive view presents new combi- 
nations of beauty and majesty, which other rivers may surpass in 
sections but none rival as a whole — and its name is the Hudson." 

New York. — Along Spuj-ten Duyvel Creek to Harlem, fifteen miles 
yet from the battery, we see the building of the city; splendid villas 
crowning the heights and here and there giving way to the solid blocks 
and paved streets of the metropolis. The elevated roads show us the 
presence of urban traffic. At last, after several miles of brick-walled 
sunken way, we rush into the Grand Central Depot, the only railroad 
depot in the city of New York, and one in every way worthy of the 
great financial and commercial metropolis of the nation. We find our- 
selves right in the heart of the great city, having avoided all tedious 
ferry transfers of person and baggage. The best hotels in the city 
are not far off, and some are 
close at hand. At the door 
is a station of the elevated 
railway, whose swift trains 
will quickly whisk us about 
the city, and street cars, 
omnibuses, hacks, and cabs 
are at hand. Courteous at- 
tendants meet ladies with 
hand-baggage and children 
and give them suitable as- 
sistance and direction. 

»> ^^ *- Si.vC'Si^'I"' - 





THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 

" Berkshire is a region of hill 
and valley, mountain and lake, 
beautiful rivers and laughing 
brooks — the ver}^ Piedmont of 
America." Whereupon one 
Godfrey Greylock naively 
wrote, "if Piedmont can 
rightly be called the Berkshire 
of Europe, it must be a very 
delightful region." 

Pittsfield, iifty-one miles from Albany by the Boston & Albany Rail- 
road, is a beautiful city of 15,000 inhabitants, in the center of this beau- 
tiful and picturesque region. It has a handsome railroad station, numer- 
ous fine buildings, an interesting history of a century and a half, and 
many poetic and literary associations. Here Lord Coleridge declared 
that " England has nothing more j^leasingly picturesque than Berk- 
shire." Here in the City Park rises a noble soldiers' monument, by 
Launt Thompson, and opposite stands the handsome building of the 
Berkshire Athen^um, the gift of Thomas Allen, whose life of rare 
usefulness and practical philanthropy was of more than local beneficence. 
Here also is the old Appleton mansion, in which 
stood "The Old Clock on the Stairs" of Long- 
fellow's poem. Extensive manufactures, chiefly 
of textile fabric, give employment to thou- 
^ . _ ^ sands; beautiful villas abound, and the lofty 

Taconic and Hoosac hills, full of romantic 
points, environ the city. A couple ot miles 
distant are the pretty lakes Onota and Pontoosuc. 
(American, Burbank, Springside.) 

The Housatonic Railroad runs southward through wonderfully 
picturesque and sometimes splendid gloomy scenery. Upon this line, 
a few miles south of Pittsfield, are the charming and somewhat aristo- 
cratic summer resorts of Lenox and Great Barrington. Northward 

45 




46 




runs a branch of the Boston & Albany 
Railroad to North Adams, in the 
Hoosac Valley, famous for its 
sheep, its cheese, its manufact- 
ures, and its glorious scenery. 
Near by is a marble arch of its 
natural bridge, and towering 
above the valley is the majestic 
Greylock, the highest mountain in 
Massachusetts, and commanding a view 
"immense and of amazing grandeur." 

Leaving Pittsfield, the rocky defiles of the Hoosac Mountains are 
pierced and the scenes of the passage of the Berkshires repeated. " In 
approaching the summit level you travel bridges built a hundred feet 
above mountain streams, tearing along their deep-worn beds; and at 
the ' deep cut ' your passage is hewn through solid rocks, whose mighty 
walls frown over you." Running down the thirteen miles to Chester, 
we follow the winding course of the Pontoosuc, fretting in its rocky bed 
between the track and the precipitous granite hillsides. On, down the 
Westfield River, the mighty mountain masses seem to constantly crowd 
upon the vision, and the wooded heights and bare granite peaks con- 
tract the sky above; and when the view broadens out at the lower level, 
there are " on every side rich valleys and smiling hillsides, and, deep set 
in their hollows, lovely lakes sparkle like gems." 

Westfield (93 miles) is a busy village, making two 
and a half million whips and ten or twelve million 
cigars annually. It has a fine soldiers' 
monument and the State Normal 
School. We pass Pochassic 
Hill and Mount Tekoa on the 
left, and meet the broad 
meadows of the Connecticut, 
basking in their rich inherit- 
ance of alluvial soil and 
unimpeded sunshine. The 
river is crossed on a long ;,, 

bridge, and we enter ^<. 



41 

Springfield (103 miles), a handsome city of over 35,000 inhabitants, 
with extensive manufactures of arms, cars, paper, metallic goods, etc., 
employing more than eight millions of capital and 7,000 hands. Unity, 
Christ, and Memorial churches, the City Library, with 50,000 volumes, 
and the granite court house, are all unusually fine buildings. On a 
park of seventy-two acres stands the great quadrangle of the United 
States Armory, where nearly 800,000 stand of arms were made during 
the War of the Rebellion. In serried ranks 175,000 rifles, symmet- 
rically arranged, may be seen there now. (Massasoit, Cooley's, 
Warwick, Haynes.) 

Worcester, the second city of the commonwealth in wealth and 
population, is 157 miles from Albany. The Union Railroad Station 
is an imposing granite building 514 by 256 feet, with a graceful stone 
clock-tower 200 feet high. Worcester boasts many noble edifices, and 
in her soldiers' monument, designed by 
Randolph Rogers, has one of the finest 
monumental structures in the coun- 
try. But her chief claim is the 
title to an academic city, and her 
greatest pride is her numerous fine 
schools and higher educational in- 
stitutions, among which are the State 
Normal School and the Free Institute of 
Industrial Science, richly endowed and admirably conducted. 

It is also an important railroad center. Connection is here made 
with the New York, Providence & Boston Railroad for Providence and 
Newport. Dummy cars and omnibuses run out to the beautiful and 
popular resorts at Lake Quinsigamond, past w^hich we go in continuing 
our route to Boston, (Bay State, Lincoln, Elm Street, Waldo House.) 

South Framingham, the Chautauqua of New England, is the junction 
of the Lowell division, upon which is Sudbury, the location of Long- 
fellow's Wayside Inn. We pass through the wealthy suburban city of 
Newton, and thence the route is lined with numerous pretty villages. 
Brighton, the great cattle market, is passed, the St. Charles River is 
approached on the left. The spires of Cambridge and the populous 
heights of Charlestown are seen, and a fine view is had of the com- 
pact and more ancient parts of Boston before running into the elegant 



/f^"^^ 




48 



depot of the line, on Kneeland Street, 
but a little distance from the city's 
best hotels. 

"This approach," says 
Bayard Taylor, "is almost 
the only picturesque city 
view we have on the Atlan- 
tic coast. The broad reaches 
of water; the cheerful suburbs 
on either hand; the long, gently 
rising brick hill in front, crowned 
with the yellow dome of the State House, when seen in the tempered 
evening light, under a cloudless sky, form an imposing and truly 
attractive picture. New York, from the bay, suggests commercial 
activity only; Philadelphia, from the Delaware, is the tamest of cities; 
but Boston, from any side, owing to her elevation, has a stately charm 
which her prouder sisters do not possess." 





VERMONT REvSORTS. 







Bellows Falls is situ- ; 
ated on the west bank of 
the Connecticut River, ■ 
eighty-six miles north of 
Springfield, where the Bos 
main line of the Central 
ton and Rutland, and the 
ing to Boston. Within half- 
river falls forty-two feet. [ 
tend for nearly a mile along 
mountain, the water dashing- 
striking with great force on the 
excursions may be made to the 

49 






\ ^ 




ton & Maine meets the 
Vermont from Burling- 
Fitchburg Railroad lead- 
a-mile of the village the 
Tlie falls or rapids ex- 
tlie base of a precipitous 
through the chasm and 
rocks below. Pleasant 
top of Mt. Kilburn, to 



50 

Warren's Pond, Abenaquis Mineral Springs, and to Westminster 
(Island House). 

Burlington, "The Queen City of Vermont," is beautifully situated 
on the slope of a long hill overlooking Burlington Bay and Lake Cham- 
plain, beyond which rise the dark masses of the Adirondacks — one of 
the most beautiful in the writer's recollection. The fine buildings of the 
University of Vermont crown the summit of Burlington Hill, nearly 
four hundred feet above the bay. In the University Park stands an 
heroic bronze statue of Lafayette by Ward, and in the Green Mountain 
Cemetery, near by, a Tuscan column, surmounted by a noble statue, 
rises above the grave of Ethan Allen, the captor of Ticonderoga. Bur- 
lington is a handsome city of some 12,000 inhabitants, and contains a 
number of fine buildings, notably St. Paul's Church, Howard Opera 
House, and the Billings Library, magnificent Renaissance building 
at the university, by Richardson. But the glory of Burlington is the 
splendor of its landscapes. The westward view, towards a peak she 
called " le lion couchant," Fredrika Bremer declared superior to any 
lake view she had ever seen, excepting only one on Lake Geneva. 
(Van Ness House, American ) 

Montpelier, the capital of the State, lies in the Winooski Valley, on 
the ]\Iontpelier & W^ells River Railroad. It is a small city of about 4,000 
inhabitants, surrounded by a beautiful and well-cultivated hill country. 
The State House is a fine granite structure, surmounted by a dome 124 
feet high, and contains interesting relics of the wars of the revolution 
and rebellion, and Mead's statue of Ethan Allen. (Pavilion Hotel, 
American, L^nion, Bishop.) 

Mount Mansfield, forty-four hundred feet high, is the principal 
attraction of this region, and is most conveniently reached from Stowe 
(Mount Mansfield House), ten miles north of the railroad station at 
Waterbury. Unlike Mount W^ashington, ]\Iansfield is not one of a group 
of surrounding peaks, but is an isolated elevation, from the summit of 
which the view east to White Mountains and west to the Adirondacks is 
unobstructed for a hundred miles. The landscape, spread out below 
like a vast picture, is beautiful as it is extensive. Vehicles can ascend 
by easy grades to the very top, shaded by fine old forest trees. The 
neighborhood of Stowe affords a multitude of charming resorts little 
known to the outside world. 



51 



Newport is the junction of the Canadian Pacific and Boston 8: Maine 
Raih'oads, and hes at the head of Lake Memphremagog. It is a handsome 
village of some twenty-five hundred people, and a delightful summering 
place. (Memphremagog House, Bellevue House.) Back of the town 
rises Prospect Hill, which affords fine view^s down the lake. Steamers 
leave Newport every morning for Magog, returning in the afternoon. 
The lake itself is thirty miles long, and from two to four miles wide, 
two-thirds of it lying in Canada. Its waters are cold and clear, and 
abound in trout and maskalonge. Its shores are rocky and high, and 
wooded mountains surround it. From Owl's Head, tw^elve miles down 
the lake (Mountain House), and Mount Elephantis, magnificent views are 
obtained that aroused the enthusiastic admiration of Anthony Trollope. 

Rutland is a busy, prosperous city of 12,000 
inhabitants, finely situated at the junction 
of the Delaware and Hudson with 
the Central Vermont. Its chief 
interest lies in the great marble 
quarries and works in and near 
the city. (Bates House, Bard- 
well House.) Pleasant excur- 
sions may be made to Clarendon 
Springs and Killington Peak, 
seven and nine miles distant, both 
of which are noted resorts. 

St. Albans, the junction of the western division 
of the Central Vermont, with its main line, is situated 
on an elevated plateau, about three miles from Lake Champlain and 
thirty-three miles north of Burlington. It is a pretty town of seven 
or eight thousand people, and is, Beecher said, " in the midst of greater 
variety of scenic beauty than any other that I remember in America." 
From Bellevue Hill, 1,300 feet above the lake, with a good road leading 
to the summit, a magnificent view is obtained of Lake Champlain and 
the Adirondacks, and the valley of the St. Lawrence, as well as Mount 
Mansfield and the Green Mountains. The views from Aldis and Pros- 
pect Hill are also fine. The scenery at St. Albans Bay is very attrac- 
tive and the fishing excellent. (Welden House, American House.) 

St. Johnsbury, a manufacturing town of 6,000 people, is on the Pas- 




52 

sumpsic River, in the eastern part of the State, where the St. Johnsbury 
& Lake Champlain meets the Boston & Maine Railroad. The Court 
House is a fine building, in front of which is a soldiers' monument, with 
a noble statue of America by Mead. Near by is the Athenaeum, with a 
good library and art gallery, the latter containing Bierstadt's Domes of 
the Yosemite. (St. Johnsbury House, Avenue House.) 

From West Burke, sixteen miles north of St. Johnsbury, Willoughby 
Lake is reached by a good road, six miles. The lake is a very remarka- 
ble one and surrounded by picturesque mountain scenery, and should be 
visited by all tourists to this region. (Willoughby Lake House.) 

Wells River is another junction point of the Boston & Maine and the 
Central Vermont, farther south (m the Connecticut. It lies in the midst 
of interesting scenery, with ]\Ioose Hill rising finely above broad inead- 
ows. Haverhill is not far below, and to the eastward one looks up the 
Ammonoosuc Valley to the White Mountains. (Coosuck House.) 

White River Junction is still farther down the Connecticut, the 
junction point of several important diverging railroads, where mountains 
look down on the gently flowing stream. Near by is Hanover, the seat 
of Dartmouth College, of which Webster and Choate were alumni, stand- 
ing back a little from the river bank. Lower down are Windsor, with 
charming, wide, shaded streets, and picturesque Clarcmont, on both of 
which Mount Ascutney looks down from its granite heights. 




THE WHITE MOUNTAINS. 




^' «t. 



ji^. 



This famous 
mountain region 
of New Hampshire 
is the northern cul- 
mination of the great 
Appalachian Mountain 
System, which stretches from 
Labrador in a southwesterly 
direction until it sinks beneath the 
more recent geological strata of Ala- 
bama. They are composed chiefly of the 
granite and gneiss rocks of the Laurentian 
and Huronian systems, cover an area of 1,270 
square miles, and reach, in Mount Washington, 
a supreme elevation of 6,293 feet above the sea. 
The peaks and precipitous slopes are frequently 
bare and rugged, showing still innumerable 
marks of the great ice sheet that covered 
them in the glacial epoch. Here and there 
are found the terminal moraines left by the 
receding glaciers, and the general aspect of the land- 
j. \v ,».,..... r ,. SAjfj scape is one of wild picturesqueness and grandeur. 

The White Mountains are divided topographically, by the famous 
White Mountain or Crawford Notch, through which runs the Maine 
Central Railroad, into two distinct groups or ranges — the Presidential 
Range lying to the east and northeast, and the Franconia Range west 
and southwest. To the south of both lies the lake region, including the 
beautiful and picturesque lakes Winnipiseogee, Squam, and Ossipee, 
with their neighboring mountains or foot-hills. No part of our coun- 
try, save Niagara, has been the inspnration of so much of beauty and 
value in American literature and art, and it has always been an objec- 
tive point for foreign as well as native tourists. 

(Consult Baedeker's United States; Ticknor's White Mountains, 

53 



*.. 



;^;r. 



54 

T. Starr King's The White Hills; Drake's Heart of the White 
Moiintaijis; Ingersoll's Down-East Latch Strings; the Maine Cen- 
tral's Croivn of Ne-d' Engla7id.) 

Whitefield lies to the northward of the Franconia Range on John's 
River. It is the iunction of the Concord & Montreal, with the new line 
of the Maine Central running to Fabyans. The Fiske (50) is in the 
village. Nearly two miles distant, on a plateau facing the mountains, 
are the Mountain View House (100) and Overlook (75). 

Twin Mountain House is eleven miles from Whitefield and five miles 
west of Fabyans, on the Ammonoosuc River. It is nearly opposite the 
Twin and Little River mountains, but its beautiful views are not equal 
to its cuisine. It accommodates 300 guests, and is a very popular 
health and pleasure resort. 

Jefferson Hill is ten miles east of Whitefield, and is reached by the 
Quebec Division of the Maine Central. It is a hamlet consisting almost 
entirely of summer boarding houses, on a high spur of Mt. Starr King, 
and divides with Bethlehem the honors of a health resort. It was from 
here that Starr King himself declared that from no other point could the 
White Hills be seen in such array and force. This view has other 
qualities to justify such a claim. The distance is happily fitted not only 
to display the confederated strength of the chain, but also to reveal in 
the essential marks of form and texture the noblest character of the 
separate mountains. (Waumbek House, 250; Plaisted House, 100; 
Jefferson Hill House, 100; Starr King ^Mountain House, 75; Stalbird 
House, 25; Grand View, 40. At Jefferson Highlands, Pliny Range, 75; 
Highland, 75; Crawford, 50; Mt. Adams, 60.) 

THE PRESIDENTIAL RANGE. 

Fabyans is practically the center of the White Mountain Region, and 
the chief objective point of tourists. It is forty-two miles from St. 
Johnsbury, forty-one miles from Wells River, and ninety-one from Port- 
land. It commands magnificent view^s of the mountains in different 
directions, and is the most convenient point from which to make excur- 
sions to the surrounding mountains and valleys. Right in front of the 
Fabyan House stops on its way to Portland the through Wagner 
sleeping car that leaves Chicago on the Michigan Central's Fast Atlantic 



55 



Express. (Fabyan House, 500; Mt Pleasant House, 300; White 
Mountain House, 150.) 

Mount Washington is most conveniently ascended from Fabyans 
by the Mount Washington Railway, three miles in length, and with a 
grade, in some places, of one foot in three. It is modeled from the Rhigi 
Railway, a cogwheel from the engine fitting into a notched center rail. 
It takes an hour and a half to make the ascent, but as the splendid and 
constantly extending panorama gradually unfolds, one has no disposi- 





::*e 





tion to increase the speed. On the summit is the United States Signal 
Station and the Mount Washington Summit Hotel, where the tourist 
should by all means remain over night if possible, to witness the sun set 
and rise again. The view from the summit is a grand one, extending 
in clear weather to the Connecticut River and Green Mountains, the 
mountains and Lake Sebago of Maine, Portland, and the ocean beyond, 
and the shining waters of Winnipiseogee to the south. Across the 
Great Gulf are seen the massive peaks of Jefferson, Adams, and Madi- 
son, to the southwest the scarcely less elevations of Monroe, Franklin, 



56 



Clinton, Jackson, and Webster, while Katahdin and Monadnock are seen 
farther off. Only Starr King has penned an adequate description of this 
view, but his detailed account is unquotable. 

On the opposite side from the railway, one may descend by the stage 
road to the Glen House on the left, or into Tuckerman's Ravine on the 

right, often finding snow 
arches still unmelted in 
the wild recesses of the 
latter. 

Crawfords, four miles 
from Fabyans, stands 
on a little plateau facing 
the notch. At this point 
begins the first pathway 
ever followed to the 
summit of Mount Wash- 
ington, and good climb- 
ers can make this royal 
journey in a day. From 
the piazzas of the Craw- 
ford House (400) is an 
inspiring view, across 
the broad lawn with its 
little lakelet, the source 
of the Saco to the Gate 
of the Notch, formed 
by the broken slopes, 
Mount Jackson upon one 
side and Mount Willard 
on the other, wnth the 
great mass of Mount 
Webster just beyond. At 
the foot of Crawford Lake is a bold promontory called Elephant's 
Head, and farther down, on the old stage road, are the Silver and 
Flume Cascades, tumbling down in a series of rushing torrents and 
veils of mist from the summit of Mount Webster (3,920 feet) to the black 
waters of Dismal Pool and the Saco River, in the valley far below 




57 

the railway which winds along the sides of Mounts Willard and 
Willey (4,313 feet). A favorite excursion from the hotel is by 
carriage road to the summit of Mount Willard (2,570 feet), which 
commands a fine view of the notch and of the mountains far and near. 
" As a simple picture of mountain pass seen from above," said Bayard 
Taylor, " it can not be surpassed in Switzerland;" and Anthony Trollope 
said that he knew nothing on the Rhine to equal it. On the east flank 
of Mount Willard is Hitchcock's Flume. Gibb's Falls and Beecher's 
Cascades are but half a mile from the hotel. " Never," wrote Grant 
Allen, the English naturalist, " save in the West Indies, have I seen 
such a glorious native woodland flora. - * * Through this log-encum- 
bered, moss-grown, lily-dappled forest, the mountain torrents course 
down in sheets of silvery foam from granite barrier into granite basin." 

Passing through the " Gate," as we glide along, high upon the shoul- 
ders of Mount Willey, we see the historic Willey House far below m the 
valley, the scene of the most woeful catastrophe in the annals of this 
region. Suddenly we appear to rest on the air alone, a deep ravine is 
crossed on a steel trestle, and the vast walls of Frankenstein overhang 
the line ahead. Away up an unexplored ravine gleams the peak of 
Mount Washington, and far below, in the bottom of the Saco Valley, the 
tops of the tall trees are interwoven like the grass of an uncut lawn. 
Across the valley the Giant's Stairs are clear cut against the sk}-, and 
the red peak of Mount Crawford sends its dome-shaped form into the 
blue. Sweeping around the great bend of the valley the train reaches 

Upper Bartlett, fourteen miles beyond Crawford's. It is in the center 
of a picturesque amphitheater oi mountains, with fine trouting near at 
hand. Numerous excursions may be made over the adjacent peaks. 
From Willoughby Ledge a beautiful view may be had of the Saco Valley. 
(Cave Mountain House, 75; Bartlett House, 25.) 

Glen Station, six miles from Upper Bartlett, and the same distance 
from North Conway, is the point of departure for Jackson and the Glen 
House. In the center of the quiet little hamlet of Jackson, and surroun- 
ded by the finest of mountain scenery, is the famous Wentworth Hall 
(250) with its pretty cottages and casino, just above which Jackson Falls 
comes rushing down the long granite slopes. Directly in front of 
Gray's Inn (125) the river winds through the meadows, extending 
from Iron Knob to Carter Notch, with the ravine-scarred sides and 




58 



towering peaks of the Presidential 
Range beyond. The Iron 
Mountain (loo), Glen Ellis 
(125), Jackson Falls (75), and 
Eagle Mountain (75) houses 
are picturesquely scattered 
through the village. Eight 
miles beyond is the site of 
the burned Glen House, the 
beautiful forest road to which 
pa;;ses through Pinkham Notch (2,018 
near Glen Ellis Falls and Crystal Cas- 
the Glen House diverges the carriage 
Mount Washington, and also the path- 
way through Tuckerman's Ravine. 

North Conway is the chief summer resort of this region, and has 
a summer population of several thousand city people. It is charmingly 
situated on a long terrace overlooking the broad intervales of the Saco 
with the picturesque cliffs and ledges of ]\Ioat Mountain beyond, and 
the crest of Mount Kearsage (3,270 feet) is but four miles distant, and 
Mount Washington but sixteen. The beauty and variety of its environs 
give North Conwa}- the foremost rank among mountain villages. (Kear- 
sage House, 300; Sunset Pavilion, 150; McMillan, 40; Artist's Falls 
House, 75.) At Kearsage Village, two miles from North Conway and 
Intervale, The Ridge; Mount Kearsage Cottage; Russell Cottage; 
Orient House, and Merrill House. Intervale, two miles north of North 
Conway, is the junction of the Maine Central with the Boston & Maine, 
leading to Lake Winnipiseogee and Boston. (Intervale House, -"^o; 
Bellevue, and several smaller hotels and boarding houses.) 



feet), and 
cade. From 
road to the summit of 



THE FRANCONIA RANGE. 



More confused in their general arrangement and covering a larger area 
than the Presidential Range, this system of mountains lies southwest of 
the former and is drained chiefly by the Pemigewasset on the south, and 
the Ammonoosuc on the north. As Mount Washington dominates the 
former. Mount Lafayette, just east of Franconia Notch, does the latter. 



59 

Although of less elevation than either, yet, from its situation and the 
views afforded from its summit, Ward holds that Mount Carrigan is the 
true center of the White Mountains, and that from it both ranges, as 
well as the Tri-Pyramid, Passaconaway, and Chocorua to the south, are 
seen to the best advantage. Carrigan is ascended by the valley of Saw- 
3'er's River from upper Bartlett or Crawford's. 

Bethlehem, thirteen miles west of Fabyans, is the terminus of a 
little narrow gauge railroad running three miles west from Bethlehem 
Junction. The village is 1,450 feet above the sea and 263 feet above the 
Ammonoosuc. Its air and water are clear and cool, and both village and 
hotel accommodations have been improved until it is now one of the 
most popular and delightful resorts in the country. " No village," said 
Starr King, " commands so grand a panoramic view. The whole hori- 
zon is fretted with mountains." A ridge separates it from Mount 
Agassiz and shelters it from the sun and south winds. A carriage 
road has been built to the summit of Mount Agassiz, which is but a mile 
and three-quarters distant by walk. In fact delightful w^alks and drives 
abound in every direction. (Sinclair, 350; Bellevue, go; Mount Agassiz, 
60; Strawberry Hill, 85; Avenue, 60; Ranlet's, 75; Alpine, 60; Mount 
Washington, 40; Highland, 60; Prospect, So; Turner, 75.) Between the 
station and the village is The Maple wood, a new, elegant, and spacious 
hotel, accommodating 600 guests. Situated in an extensive and well- 
laid-out park, wnth a fine casino, tennis courts, and all the attractions 
that can be devised, no hotel in this region stands higher in the estima- 
tion of the best class of tourists. Four miles southwest of Bethlehem 
is the charming village of Franconia, and two and a half miles beyond 
is Sugar Hill, famous for its superb views (Sunset Hill House, Good- 
now. Look- Off.) 

The Profile House is one of the best summer hotels in the United 
States, accommodating 600 guests, and admirably conducted, twenty 
miles from Fabyans; it is the terminus of a ten-mile narrow gauge from 
Bethlehem Junction, and lies at the entrance of Franconia Notch, in a 
narrow glen, betw^een the precipitous walls of Eagle Cliff and Mount 
Cannon. Except the summit houses, no hotel in the White Mountains 
is so elevated. From the comfortable veranda one can enjoy the rich 
beauty of the neighboring forests and cliffs; or, if active, scale the adja- 
cent heights. Profile and Echo lakes are near by, while it is but four 



60 



miles to Lonesome Lake, and less 
than that distance to the top of 
Mount Lafayette and to Walker's 
Falls. The famous Profile, form- 
erly called the Old Man of the 
Mountain, is very curiously 
formed by the ledges of the 
upper cliffs of Mount Cannon, 
and is best seen from near the 
hotel. It is but two miles to the 
summit of Mount Cannon, which 
is a long, massive ridge, bound- 
ing Franconia Notch on the west. 
Through the Notch stage coaches 
run to North Woodstock, thirteen 
miles, passing the Flume House 
(loo). At the south entrance, in 
the midst of very beautiful scenery, 
the Fanconia Mountains loom up 
at the north, and far southward is 
seen the Fair Valley of the Pemige- 
wasset. Near by are the Flume, the Pool, 
the Basin, Tunnel Falls, Island Falls, and Georgianna Falls. 

North Woodstock is the terminus of the Pemigewasset Branch of 
the Concord & Montreal Railroad, and is steadily growing as a summer 
resort. It is in full view of Franconia Notch , and upon every side is grand 
and imposing scenery. There is also excellent trout fishing in the vicinity. 
(Deer Park Hotel, 150; Fair View, 60; Mountain View, 40; Russell, 60.) 
Plymouth is twenty miles south of North Woodstock, on the main 
line of the Concord & IMontreal. It is one of the most beautiful villages 
in the State, and is picturesquely situated at the junction of Baker's and 
Pemigewasset rivers. The Pemigewasset House (300) looks down on 
the rushing river, overthe broad, beautiful meadows, with their graceful 
elms, to the distant mountains. It was in this house that Hawthorne 
died. May ig, 1S64. Livermore Falls are but two miles distant, and it 
is but four or five miles to the summit of Mount Prospect, the view from 
which is very beautiful and extensive. 




61 



THE LAKE COUNTRY. 



South of the White Mountains, and between the lines of the Maine 
Central and the Concord & Montreal, lies the lake region of New Hamp 
shire, in which land and water are curiously and delightfully intermin- 
gled, and to which the mountains are sufficiently near to give an addec 
charm, Winnipiseogee is the largest of these lakes, being some 
twenty-five miles in length, and its numerous islands and winding bays 
unfold a constantly varying landscape to the tourist who follows the 
tortuous water-ways. 

Laconia is six miles below the Weirs, where the Winnipiseogee 
River enters Lake Winnesquam. There are excellent roads and beauti- 
ful views in the vicinity, (Eagle; Willard, 75; Laconia, 100.) Mount Bel- 
knap and Locke's Hill, overlooking Lake Winnipiseogee, are both seven 
miles from Laconia, The view from the summit of the former is the finest 
in the lake country, and one of the most fascinating in New England. 

The Weirs, at the outlet of Winnipiseogee, is the principal lake 
station on the Concord & Montreal, eighteen miles from Plymouth. 
(Hotel Weirs, 175; Lakeside, 200; Winnescoette House, 60.) Here are 
the cottages and pavilions of large camp-meeting grounds, and here the 
trains connect with steamers plying to Center Harbor at the north end, 
and Wolfborough and Alton Bay at the south end of the lake. 

" I have been something of a traveler in our own country," wrote 
Edward Everett, " and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive, 
but my eye has yet to rest upon a lovlier scene than that which smiles 
around you as you sail from Weirs Landing to Center Harbor." 

Alton Bay, at the heaa of a narrow inlet, is the extreme southern 
poiiit of the lake, and has several points of interest in its vicinity. 
Sheep Mount is two miles north. Pongee Road seven miles southwest, 
and Merry Meeting Lake seven miles east. Mount Belknap is also 
reached from this point by a drive of ten miles. (Winnepesaukee House.) 

Wolfborough is the most important point on the lake, and is forty- 
two miles from Intervale by a branch of the Boston & Maine, It is 
a town of 3,000 inhabitants, built on beautiful slopes rising from the 
water. Copple Crown Mountain, six and a half miles distant, affords 
fine views of nearly the whole length of the lake. (Pavilion, 300; Glen- 
don, 150; Bellevue, 75.) 



62 



Center Harbor lies at the head of the long north bay of the lake, sur- 
rounded by good roads and beautiful scenery, while the beautiful islands 
and sequestered bays afford opportunities for the most interesting boat 
rides. Sunset and Garnet Hills, near by, afford fine views, while Red 
Hill, only four or five miles distant, with Long Pond at its foot, is one 
of the most famous outlooks in New England. The view from the 
summit of Red Hill, two thousand feet above the sea, vies in beauty 
with that of Mount Holyoke, overlooking as it does the bright waters 
and green islands of the lakes, and with mountain heights bounding the 
horizon. (Senter House, 150; Moulton House, 75.) 

Three or four miles from Center Harbor is Squam Lake, which should 
be visited for its sequestered loveliness, its romantic islets, and its white 
beaches. (Asquam House.) 

West Ossipee is seventeen miles south of North Conway, on the 
Boston & Maine. This is near the scene of Whittier's Among the Hills, 
where many come every year 

"To drink the wine of mountain air 
Beside the Bear-camp water." 

Six or seven miles from West Ossipee is the beautiful Chocorua Lake 

(Lake House), and a mile or so beyond is the foot of Mount Chocorua, 

whose rugged ascent is four miles in length, 

but well repays the patient climber by 

the magnificent view from the 

summit. 

Concord, eighteen miles south 
of Laconia, is but seventy-five 
miles from Boston, and besides 
being a handsome capital city, 
pleasantly located on the Merri- 
mack River, is an important rail- 
road center for the tourist. (Eagle, 
Phoenix, Elm House.) 





THE NEW ENGLAND COAST. 

All along the coast of Maine, where the rocky 
islands and bold head-lands tower above the deep-sea 
channels that have carved them into fantastic shapes, 
farther south where the waves break over 
long sandy beaches, and around the curv- 
ing sand pits of Cape Cod, to where the 
crowds of fashion's votaries swarm in 
summer at Newport and Narra- 
gansett Pier, there are scores of 
delightful summering places, 
among which the tourist will 
find every variety of watering 
place, every aspect of sun, 
and sea, and shore, of fash- 
ion and amusement, or of 
rest and quiet. To the two 
chief seaport cities of Boston 
and Portland, the Michigan -^ 
Central sends Wagner palace 



i' 




sleeping cars, taking the 



tourist from Chicago through without change, in the safest, speediest, 
most comfortable and luxurious manner. From these two points all 
the rest are easily and quickly reached. 

Boston, 20I miles from Albany, where the Boston & Albany connects 
with the New York Central, requires no description in these pages, even 
if the limited space permitted. Three daily express trains from the West 
land their passengers in the Kneeland Street Station of the B. & A., 
from which the hotels and stations of other lines are easily reached. If 
the tourist does not know his Boston thoroughly he will have provided 
himself with King's handbook before he reaches his hotel, and, according 
to the length of his sojourn (and he will always wish it were longer), he 
will w^ander over the Common and about the State House — stroll down 
the narrow streets by the Old South Church, the King's Chapel, Faneuil 
Hall, Copp's Hill, and the old India Wharf, and steep his soul in the 

63 



64 

potent memories of the past, when men wore wigs and cocked hats, and 
reverenced the crown while they loved liberty; he will go out to Bunker 
Hill, where Warren fell; and to Cambridge, w^iere Washington mus- 
tered his little army under the old elm ; he will study the statues and 
bas-reliefs of the Soldiers' Monument on Flagstaff Hill; and walk 
reverently beneath the groined arches and jeweled windows of Memorial 
Hall, with keener appreciation of what it cost to preserve our liberties as 
well as to gain them; he will walk beneath the elms of Harvard, and see 
the houses where dwelt Longfellow, Lowell, Holmes, Sumner, Phillips, 
Howe, Everett, Adams, Winthrop, and Quincy; he will visit the mag- 
nificent collections of literature, science, and art; and the splendid 
avenues and buildings of modern Boston, and her beautiful suburl)s of 
Boston homes. (Principal hotels : The Brunswick, Victoria, Vendome, 
Revere, American, Parker, Youngs, Adams, Thorndike, United States, 
and Quincy.) 

Near Boston are the summer resorts and watering places of Nahant 
on the north, and Nantasket Beach on the south of IMassachusetts Bay, 
reached by frequent steamers. 

North of Boston, and reached cither by rail or boat, are ^Nlanchester- 
by-the-Sea, Magnolia, Gloucester — the greatest fishing port in the 
world — Rockport, Swampscott, Salem, Marblehead, Newburyport, Salis- 
bury Beach, Hampton Beach, and Rye Beach. These are all reached by 
steamer and by rail. 

Portsmouth, New Hampshire's ancient capital and only seaport, lies 
on the Piscataqua River, three miles from its mouth (Rockingham, 
300; Kearsage, Webster). There are interesting historical records to be 
seen here; and across the river, in Maine, is the Kittery navy yard. On 
an island, at the mouth of the harbor, is the Wentworth, a delightful 
summer-resort hotel. Ten miles from Portsmouth are the Isles of 
Shoals, consisting of eighty rocky islets, reached by steamers four times 
a day in summer. Lowell has painted them in his verse, by night and 
by day, in calm and storm; and Whittier, Celia Thaxter, and other 
writers have often visited them. (On Appledore Island is the Appledore 
House, 500; and on Star Island the Oceanic Hotel, 300.) 

Between Portsmouth and Portland are numerous seaside resorts, 
with excellent facilities for surf -bathing, and more or less advantageous 
outlooks over the ocean. They may all be reached from stations on the 



Go 

Boston & Maine Railroad. Among these are Kittery Point (Pepperrell 
-House, Hotel Pocahontas), Wells Beach (Atlantic, Bay View, Highland), 
Kennebunkport (Parker, Ocean Bluff, 300; Glen), Biddeford Pool (Sea 
View House), Scarborough Beach (Atlantic, 150; Kirkwood, Sea View), 
and Old Orchard Beach. The latter is but four miles from Portland, 
and one of the safest and best, as well as the most noted of the bathing 
resorts on the coast (Old Orchard House, 400; Ocean, 300; Fiske, 300; 
Seashore, 300, and numerous smaller hotels). 

Portland, the commercial metropolis of jNIaine, is probably! the most 
beautiful seaport town in itself, and in its commanding situa Ition, on 
our whole Atlantic coast. It is built on a high, '«Pl^'°^^y 

peninsula, projecting into Casco Bay. iMSl Its 

harbor is deep and sheltered, and is ^^^mM- ^^^' 

tected by three powerful forts. The P^ 

highest point of the peninsula, 
Bramhall's Hill, is covered by 
fine residences, on streets so ^ J^ 

thickly lined by shade trees as 
to have given Portland the ^,,. 

name of " The Forest City." ''~^«^ 

Along its escarpment runs the 

western promenade, overlooking Deering's Woods, and with a mag- 
nificent view of the White Mountains, which, though seventy-five 
miles distant, are still clearly defined; and from it Congress Street 
runs to the eastern promenade on Munjoy's Hill, overlooking the bay. 
Longfellow was born here, and has immortalized " the beautiful town 
that is seated by the sea " in his poem, J/j/ Losf Yoitth. 

Casco Bay is one of the most beautiful harbors in the world, and a 
sail over its waters, and among its numerous islands, is full of interest. 
Several of these islands are popluar summer resorts. Cushing's Island 
is the outermost, and its high bluffs face the ocean. The views in every 
direction are charming. Sandy beaches afford good bathing (Ottawa 
House, 400). Peak's Island, on the right, is a mile and a half long, with 
a splendid sea beach (Union, 75; Bay View, 75; Oceanic, 60; Valley 
View, 75). Great Chebeague Island covers two thousand acres, while 
Little Chebeague is much smaller. 

Bath, thirty-eight miles east of Portland, is a ship-building city. 



66 



whence a fleet of pleasure steamboats ply the Kennebec to Boothbay Har- 
bor, Moose and Squirrel Islands, and other seaside resorts, including 
Popham Beach, with its new hotels (The Rockledge, loo, and Riverside, 
75), and many summer cottages. 

Rockland is eighty-eight miles by rail from Portland. It is a city of 
nearly ten thousand people, pleasantly situated on Owl's Head Bay, which 
opens into Penobscot Bay (Thorndyke, 100). The vicinity abounds in pict- 
uresque hill and marine scenery; reached easily by numerous stage-coach 
and steamboat lines. But thirty minutes' drive from the station is the 
Bay Point Hotel (250), on the breakwater, and environed by the Camden 
Mountains, which rise directly from the sea. The charming Camden 
village (Bay View, 50) is eight miles north, along shore. The granite 
from the islands in the bay has been used in many of the finest public 
and commercial buildings in the country, and is famous for its beauty 
and quality. 

Bar Harbor is the most popular and best known of all the Maine 
resorts, and deservedly so. It is located on the Island of Mount Desert, 
in Frenchman's Bay. The through sleeping- 
car from Chicago, via the Michigan 
Central Railroad and the White 
Mountains, connects, in the 
magnificent new depot of the 
Maine Central in Portland, 
with through trains and sleep- 
ing-cars for Bar Harbor, one 
hundred and eighty miles dis- 
tant, arriving there next morn- 
ing in time for breakfast. 

"The island unites a strik- 
ing group of picturesque feat- 
ures. It is surrounded by seas, 
crowned with mountains and 
embosomed with lakes. Its 
.shores are bold and rocky 
cliffs, upon which the breakers 
for countless centuries have 
wrought their ceaseless at- 




67 

trition. It affords the only instance along our Atlantic coast where 
mountains stand in close neighborhood to the sea. Here in our pic- 
ture are beetling cliffs with the roar of restless breakers; far stretches 
of bay dotted with green islands; placid mountain lakes mirroring the 
mountain precipices that tower above them; rugged gorges clothed 
with primitive forests; and sheltered coves, where the sea- waves ripple 
on the shelly beach. Upon the shores are masses of cyclopsen rocks, 
heaped one upon another in titanic disorder, and strange caverns of 
marvelous beauty; on the mountains are frightful precipices, wonderful 
prospect of far-extending sea, and mazes of land and water, and mag- 
nificent forests of fir and spruce. It is a xmion of all these supreme fas- 
cinations of scenery, such as nature, munificent as she is, rarely affords." 

The roads of Mount Desert are kept in good condition ; the woodland 
paths are charming; a good wagon road, as well as an inclined railway, 
leads to the summit of Green Mountain, but the waters form the chief 
highways, upon which the means of locomotion are ample and varied. 
Bar Harbor has become a summer city, with splendid villas of the 
wealthy, and immense hotels; but also with modest, delightful homes 
and quiet boarding houses, for those who prefer rest and unostentation. 
The kaleidoscopic society here, as well as the points of interest, has 
been well depicted by Charles Dudley Warner in Their Pilgrimage, 
and by Mrs. Harrison in Bar Harbor Days. 

Principal hotels at Bar Harbor: St. Sauveur, 200; Malvern, 150; Marl- 
borough, 100; Newport, 150; Louisburg, 300; West End, 400; Hotel des 
Isles, 150; Rockaway, 100; Belmont, 130; Lyman, 125; Porcupine, 150. 
There are numerous smaller hotels and boarding houses on the island, 
not only at Bar Harbor, but also on Green Mountain, at Eagle Lake, 
Seal Harbor, Northeast Harbor, Southwest Harbor, and at Somesville, 
as well as at Sullivan, Sorrento, and Grindstone Neck, across the bay. 



CANADIAN RESORTS. 

Kingsville is thirty miles from Detroit by steamer and by the Lake 
Erie, Essex & Detroit River Railroad. It is noted chiefly as the site of 
the Mettawas, a first-class hotel and summer resort, picturesquely 
located, well furnished, and admirably conducted. On the coast of the 
famous Essex peninsula, opposite the Pelee Islands, it affords fine 
opportunities for boating, bathing, and fishing. 

Niagara-on-the-Lake is the terminus of the Niagara division of the 
Michigan Central, twelve miles north of Clifton, on the main line. The 
fine steamers of the Niagara Navigation Company meet the trains here 
and run to Toronto, across the lake. Its location, at the mouth of 
Niagara River, is a charming one, the drives in the vicinity through a 
rich and beautiful country, to the famous battle-grounds of Queenston 
Heights and Lundy's Lane, and the boating, fishing, and bathing may 
be enjoyed without end. (Queen's Royal, 200. See advertisement.) 

Across the river is Fort Niagara, one of the oldest fortifications 
in the United States, and still garrisoned; and but a .short distance from 
the town are the assembly grounds of the Canada Chautauqua and Para- 
dise Grove, favorite resorts for a day's outing. The latter is connected 
by a spur track with the Michigan Central. 

Hamilton, the third cit}^ of the Dominion, is connected with the Michi- 
gan Central at Waterford by the new line of the Toronto, Hamilton & 
Buffalo Railway. It is beautifully situated on a plateau, slightly elevated 
above Hamilton Bay, at the head of Lake Ontario. In its central por- 
tion is one of the handsomest parks in Canada, containing several foun- 
tains and a statue of Sir John A. Macdonald. Back of the city is a hilly 
range called the mountain, reached by an inclined railway, and affording 
a fine and very extended view. The beautiful bay, six miles in length, 
leads to the important watering place of Burlington Beach, and to 
which numerous steamboats and trains run during the summer season. 
(Hotels: Royal, 200; St. Nicholas, 100; American, 70.) 

Toronto, the capital and metropolis of Ontario, is a handsome com- 
mercial city of nearly a quarter of a million, covering some ten square 
miles on a low plain rising somewhat from the lake. The view of it, 



69 




however, either from the water or the surrounding heights, with its 
array of dome and turret, arch and spire, and varied movement of its 
water front, is one of much beauty. It is well and solidly built, and in 
generally excellent taste, with unusual purity of architecture. It is also 
an important educational center, the finest buildings in the city being 
those of the University of Toronto, until their injury last year by fire. 
These buildings, now being repaired, form three sides of a large quad- 
rangle in an extensive park 
approached by College Ave- 
nue, which is lined with 
double rows of noble trees 
Osgoode Hall, the College 
of Technology, the Normal 
School, the Model Schools, 
and the Educational Mu- 
seum, and Trinity Col- 
lege, a large picturesque 
building on Queen Street, 
are all of especial interest. 
The churches of Toronto 
are numerous and prosperous. The parks, too, are many and very at- 
tractive. The Queen's Park lies in the center of the city, the Island 
Park on an island across the bay, High Park in the western part, Vic- 
toria Park near Scarborough Heights, and Riverdale on the banks of the 
Don. (Queen's, 400 ; Rossin House, 400 ; Walker House, 200 ; Palmer 
House, 200 ; Arlington, 200.) 

North of Toronto lie the famous Muskoka and Nipissing Lake dis- 
tricts, and the rail lines north and northeastward run through a similar 
picturesque region of lakes and swift, cold streams, a very paradise to 
the fisherman. 

Kingston, a flourishing historic city of some 15,000 people, lies at the 
foot of Lake Ontario, opposite Cape Vincent. Here, in 1673, Count 
Frontenac founded the fort that bore his name and was commanded by 
La Salle, from whose brain was evolved the comprehensive scheme of 
conquest of which this was a part. The present Fort Henry was built 
on its site. Near by is the Royal Military College, the West Point of 
Canada. Kingston is now a handsome, solidly built city, and quite an 




70 



educational and commercial center. (Frontenac, 150; British- American, 
150; City, 150; Anglo-American, 75; Windsor, 50.) 

Brockville is an important town of 6,000 inhabitants lying on the north 
bank of the St. Lawrence, at the foot of the Lake of the Thousand 
Islands. The town is skirted by pretty villas overlooking the river, 
which is here two miles in width. (St. Lawrence, 100; Revere, 75.) 

Prescott is thirteen miles below Brockville, and a few miles above the 
First Rapids of the St. Lawrence. It is connected by a ferry with 
Ogdensburg, on the south side of the river. (Daniels, 75; Revere, 30.) 

Ottawa, the capital of the Dominion, is a new but beautiful city of 
some 30,000 people, located between the two falls of the Ottawa River — 
the Rideau and the Chaudiere. Its chief glory Trollope justly declared 
to be the Parliament buildings, constructed of cream-colored sandstone, 
with arches of red Potsdam sandstone, on the high rock above the river. 
"As regards purity of art and manliness of conception, as well as for 
beauty of outline and truthful nobility of detail, the work is entitled to 
the very highest praise. I know no modern Gothic purer of its kind, or 
less sullied with fictitious ornamentation." (Russell, 500; Windsor, 200; 
Grand Union, 130.) 

Caledonia Springs, between Ottawa and Montreal, is known as the 
"Canadian Harrowgate," and is much frequented in the season. The 
waters are valuable in rheumatic and cutaneous diseases, and are shipped 
under the name of " Plantagenet Water." The hotel accommodations 
are said to be excellent. 

Montreal, the metropolis 
■ I ' (if the Dominion, has a 

population of nearly 300,- 
000, and a foreign com- 
merce of $70,000,000 an- 
nually. No Canadian city 
is better known to Ameri- 
cans, and many of our 
readers will need no des- 
cription of this pictur- 
esque town of gray lime- 
stone, with tall spires and 
glittering roofs and domes, 




n 



backed b}^ Mount Royal; its miles of solid limestone quad's, docks, and 
wharves, lined with shipping; its large and magnificent cathedrals and 
churches; its spacious market, courthouse, and city hall; McGill College, 
and its unrivaled museum; and the great bridges over the St. Lawrence. 
All these, and the beautiful drive through Mount Royal Park and around 
the mountain, are familiar to all readers by innumerable descriptions 
and pictures. (Windsor, 500; St. Lawrence Hall, 400; Balmoral, 350; 
Richelieu, 300.) 

Montreal is an important center, or base of future movements, of the 
tousist. Thence he will go up the picturesque but little-known Ottawa 
River; or southward by the " D. & H." to the Adirondacks, Lake George, 
Saratoga, the Hudson, and New York; or bj^ Lake Memphremagog and 
the White Mountains to Portland and Boston; or down the St. Lawrence 
by rail or steamer to Quebec, and thence by steamer up the Saguenay 
to Chicoutimi, and by the new railroad to Lake St. John. 

Three Rivers, containing about 10,000 inhabitants and several fine 
buildings, is about halfwa)' between Montreal and Quebec. (British- 
American, St. James.) St. Leon Springs, perhaps the most famous in 
Canada, are reached by stage -ride of tAventy-six miles, but more easily 
by a five-mile ride from Louiseville. The Falls of the Shawanegan, 
twenty-two miles up the St. Maurice River, have a descent of 150 feet, 
and a magnitude second only to Niagara. 

Quebec, oldest, quaintest, and most picturesque of Canadian cities 
occupies the base and summit of a loft)^ crag projecting into the St. 
Lawrence. No city in America is so grandly 
situated or offers views from its higher 
points more diversified and lovely. 
In the LTpper Town, or the high- 
lands, the public buildings, 
churches, convents, schools, 
business blocks, and 
hotels are found. The 
Lower Town is the com- 
mercial quarter, and 
abounds in irregular, 
narrow streets and 
quaint old houses. The 




leading attractions are the Ursuline Convent, the great Laval Uni- 
versity, the Basilica, and, above all, the superb outlook from Dufferin 
Terrace, which is crowned by that most magnificent hotel, the Chateau 
Frontenac (500). The drives about the city are very interesting, par- 
ticularly to the Indian village of Lorette, and down the beautiful Beau- 
port road to the Falls of INIontmorency. The Chaudiere Falls and the 
Falls of St. Anne are also very wild and beautiful. (St. Louis, 400; 
Florence, 200.) 

Passing the Isle of Orleans, below Quebec, the St. Lawrence 
attains and keeps a width of about twenty miles, with eighteen feet 
tides, and the scene is often enlivened by seals and porpoises playing in 
the clear salt water. Touching at iMurray Bay, Riviere du Loup, and 

Cacouna — the Newport nf ^ ^^^^ ^ Canada — the steamer crosses 

the river to Tadousac, 134 miles 
'Vom Quebec, where Jacques 
L artier landed in 1535. Turn- 
ing northward, it passes up the 
vast, wild caiion through which 
the Saguenay pours its black 
waters — ' ' a tremendous chasm, 
like that of the Jordan Valley 
and the Dead Sea, cleft for .sixty 
miles through the heart of a 
mountain wilderness." " It exer- 
cises a fascination which you can not 
resist. You look, and look, fettered by the fresh, novel, savage stamp 
which nature exhibits, and, at last, as in vSt. Peter's or at Niagara, learn 
from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur 
of the whole." Lofty peaks and palisades tower on either side all the 
thirty-four miles to Trinity Bay, which is guarded by the majestic capes 
Trinity and Eternity, rising grandly 2,000 feet above the dark waters, 
600 fathoms deep. Of this impressive scener^^ Bayard Taylor said : 
" I doubt whether a sublimer picture of wilderness is to be found on this 
continent." 

Statue Point and Les Tableaux are next passed, and then Ha-Ha 
Bay is reached, with Chicoutimi above at the head of ship navigation. 
Here is a good hotel, a cathedral and convent, and a new stone college ; 




73 

and the Chicoutimi River, swarming with fish, phmges over a fall of 
fifty feet before entering the Saguenay. Nine miles above Chicoutimi, 
on the Saguenay, are the wild and beautiful Rapides de les Terres 
Rompues, w^here is caught the famous pink-fleshed winninish. The 
ascent of the Saguenay is made at night, and the descent by day, 
arriving at Quebec the following morning. 

Roberval, a town of i,ooo inhabitants, with its church and convent, 
and new summer hotel (300), is 190 miles north of Quebec. It lies on the 
southw^estern shore of Lake St. John, and is the terminus of the new 
Quebec & Lake St. John Railway, which is equipped with handsome 
parlor and sleeping cars. The steamer Paribonca makes daily trips 
around the lakes, visiting the mouths of the great northern rivers, which 
flow down for 200 miles from the savage solitudes about Hudson's Bay. 
The cold cle'ar waters are filled with the finest of game fish. 

From Quebec the Intercolonial Railway runs along the south bank 
of the St. Lawrence until the Maine boundary is passed, and then runs 
southerly across the Metapedia (which, with the Restigouche and other 
tributaries, are famous salmon streams), along the Bale de Chaleur, 
across the Mirimichi and Nova Scotia to Her Majesty's chief American 
seaport and naval station. 

Halifax, with a population of 40,000, is the chief British military and 
naval station in America. It looks out from its rocky hills, crowned by 
the citadel, upon a noble harbor, perhaps the finest in the world. The 
picturesque Nova Scotian capital has a large garrison of red-coated 
British regulars, and its general aspect is warlike. The fortifications, 
public buildings, museum, dockyard, public gardens, and cathedral are all 
interesting to the tourist. (Hotels: Halifax, 350; Queens, 200; Lome, 
50; Waverly, 60.) 

North of Halifax on the Bay of Minas lies the Arcadian land immor- 
talized in Longfellow's "Evangeline," and east and west stretch out 
many leagues of maritime country, so curiously interesting to the 
American visitor who has scanned the pages of Warner's Baddeck and 
that Soi't of Thing. (See also Sweetser's Maritime Provinces.) 

St. John, the picturesque chief city of New Brunswick, with a pop- 
ulation of 50,000, "with its couple of centuries of history and tradition, 
its commerce, its enterprise, felt all along the coast and through the 
territory to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and solid 



74 

English culture," is situated on the Bay of Fundy at the mouth of the St. 
John River. The public buildings are fine and the marine views 
very pleasing. Lily Lake, Loch Lomond, and the gorge and falls 
of the river in the vicinity are very interesting. At the wharves the 
famous tides rise and fall thirty feet, and temper the summer atmos- 
phere. (Royal, 150; Dufferin, 100; New Victoria, 100; Belmont, 100.) 

St. Andrews is a charming summer resort on Passamaquoddy Bay, 
which, while well-known for generations, has but lately attracted sum- 
mer tourists from a distance in large numbers. The Algonquin (300), 
large as it is, has proven too small to accommodate its guests, and 
extensive additions have been made. The scenery, the driving, the 
fishing, the sailing, the mountain trips are all of the finest. 



ACKNOWLEDGMENTS. 

The fine half-tone etchings which illustrate this book have been 
selected with the single purpose of depicting as fairly as possible the 
scenes and routes described therein. For the originals we are indebted 
to the following photographic artists: 

B.\LDWIN, Saranac Lake, page 38; 

Childs, Marquette, pages 13 and ig; 

Chandler, St. Albans, page 35; 

A. W. Currier, pages 56, 58, and 60; 

George E. Curtis, Niagara Falls, pages 24, 26, 27. and 28; 

Charles Derby, page 39; 

W. H. Jackson Company, Denver, pages 42, 43, and 51. (These photographs are 

copyrighted, and are used with the special permission of the proprietors); 
J. C. Kemment, New York, page 36; 
A. C. McIntyre, Alexandria Bay, pages 31 and 32; 
George F. Sterling, West Bay City, frontispiece and page 12; 
S. R. Stoddard, Glens Falls, pages 35 and 37; 
A. A. Van Cleve, Ypsilanti, page 19; 
S. S. Wheeler, Pittsfield, pages 45, 46, 47, and 62. 

We are also indebted to Mr. F. E.Boothby, General Passenger & Ticket Agent, 
Maine Central, for the drawing used on page 53, and for other photographic material. 



INDEX. 



Railroad Stations are Printed in Roman Type. 



PAGE 

Adirondack Mountains, N. v., . . 35 

Albany, N. Y., 41 

Alexandria Bay, N. Y., 31 

Alma, Mich., 20 

Alton Bay, N. H., 61 

An Sable Chasm, N. Y., 40 

Baldwin, N. Y., 30 

Bar Harbor, Me., 66 

Bath, Me., 65 

Battle Creek, Mich., . . ..... 19 

Bay View, Mich., 12, 16 

Bellows Falls, Vt., 49 

Benton Harbor, Mich., 21 

Berkshire Hills, Mass., 45 

Bethlehem, N. H., . 59 

Bois Blanc Island, Midi., 14 

Boston, Mass., 47i 63 

Brockville, Ont., 70 

Buffalo, N. Y , 29 

Burlington, Vt., 50 

Cacouna, Que., 72 

Caldwell, N. Y., 30 

Caledonia Springs, Ont., 70 

Canadian Resorts, . 68 

Canandaigua, N. Y., 29 

Cantaliver Bridge, 25 

Cape Vincent, N. Y., 31 

Cassopolis, Mich., 18 

Catskill Landing, N. Y., 41 

Catskill Mountains, N'. Y.,. . . .41,42 

Center Harbor, N. H., 62 

Central New York, 29 

Charlevoix, Mich., 17 

Chateaugay, N. Y., 40 

Cheboygan, Mich., 14, 16 

Chester, Mass., 46 

Chicago, 111., 7,9,11,12,54,63 

Chicoiitinii, Que., 72 

Child wold, N. Y., 37 

Clayton, N. Y., 31 

Clifton, Ont., 25 

Clifton Springs, N. Y., 30 

Concord, N. H., 62 

Cornwall, Ont., 33 

Crawford's, N. H., 56 

Gushing" s Island, Me., 65 

Detroit, Mich., 12, 19 

Diamond Lake, Mich., 18 

Dickinson's Landing, Ont., .... 33 

Dowagiac, Mich., 18 

Eastman Springs, Mich., 21 

Elizabethtown, N. Y., 40 

Fabyan's, N. H., 54 



PAGE 

Falls View, Ont., 23 

Fi-shkill, N. Y., 42 

Franconia Notch, N. H., 60 

Pranconia Range, N. H., . . . . 58 

Fulton Chain, N. Y., 36 

Garrison's, N. Y., 42 

Geneva, N. Y., 29 

Glen Station, N. H. 57 

Grand Rapids, Mich., 11, 12 

Grayling, Mich., 17 

Green Mountain, Me., 67 

Green Mountains, Vt., 50 

Halifax, N. S., 73 

Hamilton, Ont., 68 

Hancock, Mich., 15 

Harbor Point, Mich 16 

Harbor Springs, Mich., 16 

Harlem, N. Y., 44 

Higgins Lake, Mich., 18 

Houghton, Mich., 15 

Houghton Lake, Mich., 18 

Hudson, N. Y., 41 

Hudson River, N. Y., 41 

Indian River, Mich., 16 

Inland Route, Mich., 16 

Intervale. N. H., 60 

Isles of Shoals, N. H 64 

Jefferson Hill, N. H., 54 

Kalamazoo, Mich 12 

Keene Valley, N'. Y., 40 

Kingston, Ont., 69 

Kingsville, Ont., 68 

Lachine Rapids, Que , 33 

Laconia, N. H., .... . . 61 

Lake Champlain, N. Y.and Vt., . . 30 

Lake Clear, N. Y., 37 

Lake Cora, Mich., 18 

Lake George, N. Y., 30 

Lake Kushaqua, N. Y., 39 

Lake Me))ipliremagog, Vt , . . . . 51 

Lake Onota, Mass., 45 

Lake Placid. N. Y., 38 

Lake St. John, Que., 73 

Lake IVinnipiseogee, N. H., . . . . 61 

Les Clieneaux Islands, Midi., ... 14 

Loon Lake, N. Y., . . 39 

Macatawa Park, Mich., 21 

Mackinac Island, Mich., 12 

Mackinaw City, Mich., i^t 15 

Malone, N. Y., 39 

Marquette, Mich., 14 

Massena Springs, N. Y., 33 

Michigan Resorts, n 



75 



7G 



PAGE 

Montmorency Falls, Que 72 

Montpelier, Vt., 50 

Montreal, Que., 347 7° 

Mount Clemens, Mich., 19 

Mount Desert Island, Me., 66 

Mount Mansfield, Vt., 50 

Mount McGregor, N. Y., 30 

Mount Tahawus, N. Y., 35) 37 

Mount Washington, N. H., . . 53, 55 

Mullet Lake, Mich., 15 

Murray Bay, Que., 72 

Muskegon, Mich., 12 

Muskoka Lakes, Ont., 69 

Ne-ha-sa-ne, N. Y., 37 

New Buffalo, Mich., 11 

Newburgh, N. Y., 42 

New Engl.\nd Coast, 63 

Newport, Vt., 51 

Neivspaper Notes, 8 

New York, N. Y 44 

Niagara Falls, 23 

Niagara Falls, N. Y., 26 

Niagara Falls, Ont., 24 

Niagara-on-the-Lake, Ont., 68 

North Adams, Mass., 46 

North Conwav, N. H 58 

North Creek, "N. Y., 40 

North Woodstock, N. H. 60 

Oden, Mich., 16 

Ogdensburg, N. Y., 32 

Old Orchard Beach, Me., 65 

Omena, Mich 17 

Orion Lake, Mich., 21 

Ottawa, Canada, 70 

Ottawa Beach, Mich., 21 

Otvl's Head Mountain, Vt., . . . . 53 

Paul Smith's, N. Y., 38 

Peekskill, N. Y., 43 

Petoskey, Mich., 12,16 

Pictured Rocks, L. S., 15 

Pittsfield, Mass., 45 

Plattsburgh, N. Y., 40 

Plymouth, N. H., 60 

Point aux Pins, Mich., 14 

Port Kent, N. Y., . . . 40 

Portland, Me., 65 

Portsmouth, N. H., 64 

Poughkeepsie, N. Y., 42 

Prescott, Ont., 70 

Profile House, N. H 59 

Quebec, Que., 71, 73 

Queenston, Ont., 25 

Railroad Commissioner of Michigan, 10 

Rainbow Lake, N. Y., 39 

Rapids of the St. Laivrence, .... 33 

Rhinecliff, N. Y., 42 

Riverside, N. Y., 40 

Riviere du Loup, Que., 72 



PAGE 

Roaring Brook, Mich., 16 

Roberval, Que., 73 

Rockland, Me., 66 

Rutland, Vt., 51 

Saguenay River, Que., 72 

Saranac Inn, N. Y., 37 

Saranac Lake, N. Y., 38 

Saratoga Springs, N. Y., 30 

Sault Ste. Marie, Mich., 14 

Schroon Lake, N. Y. 40 

Shaivaufgan Falls, Que., 71 

Sing Sing, N. Y., 44 

Sister Lakes, Mich., . 18 

South Framington, Mass., 47 

Springfield, Mass , 47 

Squam Lake, N. H., 62 

St. Albans, Vt., 51 

St. Andrews, N. B ... 74 

St. Clair Springs, Mich., 20 

St. Ignace, Mich., 15 

St. John, N. B., 73 

St. Johnsburv, Vt., 51 

St. Joseph, Mich., 21 

St. Lawrence River, 31 

St. Leon Springs, Que., 71 

St. Louis, Mich., 21 

Suspension Bridge, N. Y., 26 

Tadousac, Que., 72 

Tarrvtown, N. Y., 44 

Thousand Islands, N. Y. and Ont., 31 

Three Rivers, Que., 71 

Topinabee, Mich., 15 

Toronto, Ont., 68 

Traverse Beach, Mich., 17 

Traverse Citv, Mich., 17 

Trenton Falls, N. Y., 36 

Tupper Lake, N. Y., 37 

Twin ^Mountain House, N. H., ... 54 

Upper Bartlett, Vt., 57 

Vermont Resorts, 49 

Wagner Cars, 7, 12, 54, 63 

Watkin's Glen, N. Y., 29, 30 

Weirs, N. H., 61 

Wells River, Vt., 52 

Wequetonsing, Mich., 16 

Westfield, Mass., 46 

West Ossipee, N. H., 62 

West Point, N. Y., 43 

Westport, N. Y., 40 

Where and How 5 

Whitefield, N. H., 54 

White Mountains, Vt., 53 

White River Junction, Vt., 52 

Willoughbv Lake, Vt., . ..... 52 

Wolfborough, N. H 61 

Worcester, Mass., 47 

Yonkers, N. Y., 44 

Ypsilanti, Mich., 19 



THE WAYNE^Eim 




One of the most comfortable hotels in Detroit. Rates: $2.00 to $3.50 Per Day. 
$20,000 Expended in Recent Improuements. J. R. HAYES, Proprietor. 



X H E GRAN D MACKIN AC islan d^ 




^j^^ - - - 

Open from July 1st until latter p,iit of September Is one of the Liiyrcst and mo^t iieifectl> 
equipped resort hotels. The hotel will be under the personal management of Mr. J. R. HAYES, 
Proprietor. _,„ 



Hudson River by Daylight. 

The Most Charming Inland Water Trip on the American Continent. 



-^ 



4\.-:.. 



•mxff :ni:rtTrr€ liiilliillilllllH 



M»»r?'«VsV'?» ulne^Kr»fr'W^^1 irBigf vf &"qin"i-j-«v «• - '-^- "^"^l^- ■ .- ti . 



THE PALACE IRON STEAMERS 
Of the Hudson River Day Line. 



DAILY, EXCEPT SUNDAYS. 

Lieave New York, Desbrosses Street 8.40 A. M. 

New York, "West 22d Street, N. R 9.00 

Albany, Hamilton Street 8. 30 

The Attractive Route for Summer Pleasure Travel to and 

from the Catskill Mountains, Saratoga, and the 

Adirondacks. Hotel Champlain and the North. 

Niagara Falls and the West. 

A trip on one of these famous steamers on the noblest stream in the country, 
offers rare attractions. They are fitted up in the most elegant style, exclusively for 
passengers. Their great speed, fine orchestra, spacious saloons, private parlors, and 
luxurious accommodations, in every respect render them unexcelled. Handsomely 
appointed dining rooms, with superior service, are on the main deck, affording an 
uninterrupted view of the magnificent scenery for which the Hudson is noted. 



Through Tickets Sold to all Points and Baggage Checked to Destination. 
Send six cents for copy of "Summer Excursion Book." 

F. B, HIBBARD, General Passenger Agent. C. T. VAN SANTVOORD, General Manager. 

Desbrosses Street Pier, New York. 

78 




The Oakland Hotel, 



St. Clair Springs, Mich. 



MOST CHARMING RESORT 

On the west bank of the St. Clair River 

the environs delightful. The hotel 

thoroughly first-class manner. The table is admirable 

desire to prolong their stay and to repeat their visits 



The location is beautiful and 

s constructed and operated in a 

Visitors always 



THE OAKLAND SPRING 

Is stronger in its mineralization than any known water of its class m 
this country or in Europe, and the baths are of incalculable value m a 
great variety of diseases, and particularly in nasal catarrh and all 
affections of mucous surfaces. These baths are administered m the 
most judicious and perfect manner. 

THE SALUTARIS 

Is a table water of superior excellence, absolutely free from organic 
matter, and wherever known is adopted in preference to all other table 
waters by the dyspeptic and gourmet. 

For illustrated descriptive pamphlet address 

THE OAKLAND HOTEL, 

HURTY & Moore, Proprietors, 

ST. CLAIR SPRINGS, MiCH. 

Also of DELAVAN HOUSE, ALBANY, N. Y. 

(See A Summer Note Book, page 20.) 
79 





XiARA FALLS. NEW YORK- 

LeaveCdr5 atNiagara Falls, NewYork srarion, 



The 

Clifton House 

Niagara Falls. 
.... Open from May to November. 



This quiet Hotel presents to tourists ^ 

every desirable comfort. "^i^ 

The cttisine, service, a7^d attention ^c 

unsurpassed. 



SNl/^ (r,;/D 



Location: Directly Opposite the Falls. 

POSITIVELY the only Hotel commanding- 
any view whatever of the Falls of Niagara, 
and the electric illumination of the Ameri- 
can Falls, at night, an exclusive advantage 
' of the Clifton. 

CHECK BAGGAGE TO NIAGARA FALLS, N. Y. 



For ApLU'tmeiits and Info7'matio7i, addi^ess 

G. M. COLBURN, 

Niagara Falls. N. Y. 

81 











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...The Queen's Royal Hotel, 

NIAGARA-ON-THE-LAKE, CANADA, 

Is one of the most picturesque and delig-htful summer hotels in America. It is 
situated at the mouth of the Niagara River, fronting on Lake Ontario, just twelve 
miles below the great Falls of Niagara. Its position commands a beautiful view of 
both lake and river, and the scenery and surroundings are the most beautiful and 
captivating in all Canada. 

The boating is delightful and the beach-bathing delicious and health-giving ; the 
water in the Niagara River in front of the hotel being of the purest, clearest, and 
invigorating nature. The fishing is most abundant, and here the magnificent black 
bass, the finest game fish in America, makes his home. Eight Tennis Courts. 

The Queen's Royal is reached from Buffalo and Niagara Falls by the 
Michigan Central Railroad, and from Toronto by the magnificent steel steamers 
of the Niagara Navigation Company, which make six trips daily. For terms, etc., 

apply to McGAW & WINNETT, Queen's Royal Hotel, 



Send for Jllusfrafed Circtilar. 



Niagaha-On-The-Lake, Ont. 



...The Queen's Hotel, 

TORONTO, CANADA,. 

IS THE MOST COMFORTABLE HOTEL IN THE DOMINION. 

While possessing every modern convenience, and the latest and most scientific 
improvements, the Queen^s has always been famous for the solid, cosy, home-like 
comfort which is characteristic of the best English hotels. Elegance and comfort 
are combined in the happiest manner. 

McGAW & WINNETT, Proprietors. 
82 



j^ iagara J-^iver | ^ine. 



The Palace Steel Steamers, "CHIPPEWA," '^CIB- 
OLA," and '' CHICORA," leave Niagara on Lake six 
times daily (except Sunday) on arrival of Michigan 
Central trains for 



Toronto 



The Queen City of Canada. 

This is the short and picturesque water route from 
the mouth of the Lower Niagara, across Lake Ontario, 
giving passengers taking this trip from points on the 
MICHIGAN CENTRAL RAILROAD, a delightful 
sail of forty miles, in the fastest steamers on fresh 
waters. Close connections made at Toronto with steam- 
ers for Montreal, Rapids, etc. 

No visitor to the Falls or Niagara region should fail 
to make this trip. 

Tickets and all information at offices of Michigan 
Central Railroad. 

JOHN FOY, Manager, 

^,- TORONTO. 

83 



THE 



P^ichelieu & Qntario Navigation Qo. 

ROYAL MAIL LINE 

Between Toroiito, Kingstofi, Montreal, 

And Intermediate Ports, 

COMPOSED OF THE FOLLOWING FIRST-CLASS IRON STEAMERS. 



SPARTAN, 



SEASON 



CORSICAN," "PASSPORT," and "ALGERIAN. 



OF 



1895- 




SEASON 

OF 

1895- 



Leaving Toronto daily (Sundays excepted) at 2.00 o'clock P. M., calling at Bow- 
manville, Port Hope, Cobovirg, Kingston, Clayton, Alexandria Bay, and other inter- 
mediate ports, arriving at Montreal at 6. 30 P. M., connecting with the steamers for 
Quebec and the Saguenay. 

All the above steamers pass through the beautiful and romantic scenery of the 
Lake of the Thousand Islands and the exciting Rapids of the St. Lawrence, by 
daylight. 

THE MONTREAL AND QUEBEC LINE, 

Composed of the magnificent large Iron Steamers 

"QUEBEC" AND "MONTREAL," 

Will leave Montreal daily (Sundays excepted) at 7.00 P. M., calling at intermediate 
ports, and arriving at Quebec at 6. 30 the following morning, connecting with steamers 
for the Saguenay and the Intercolonial Railway for places in the Maritime Provinces. 

THE SAGUENAY LINE, 

Composed of the beautiful iron steamer " CAROLINE," recentlv purchased at Balti- 
more, the splendid steel steamer "CANADA," and the fine steamer "SAGUENAY." 
One of these steamers will leave Quebec on the mornings of Tuesday, Wednes- 
day, Friday, and Saturday at 7.30, calling at Murray Bav, River-du-Loup, Tadousac, 
Ha Ha Bay, and Chicoutirhi, connecting at this place with the Lake St. John Railway. 
State-rooms mav be secured and tickets obtained on application to 

T- F. DOLAN, . . No. 2 King Street East, TORONTO. 

H. FOSTER CHAFFEE, No. 128 St. James Street, Montreal. 
J. McCONNIFF, . . Windsor Hotel, MONTREAL. 
L. H. MYRAND, . . Napoleon Wharf, QUEBEC. 
Through tickets on sale at principal Railway Offices in the United States and Canada. 
ALEX. MILLOY, C. F. Gl LDERSLEEVE, 

Traffic Manager. General Manager. 

GENERAL OFFICES, 228 ST. PAUL STREET, MONTREAL. 

84 



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Champlain X^^^^P^rtation Qo. 






A A. 




/,NPTHi: jAI<t^^ (E)ORG£r ^ 
J?^TL/\NtBO/\T ^'>^ 



LAKE CHAMPLAIN and LAKE GEORGE 



THE POPULAR 
PLEASURE 



Montreal, Plattsburgh, Hotel Champlain, 
Roi.Tr nrx«,rrM CatHoMc SumiTier School, Ausable Chasm, 
^^ouTE BETWEEN x,,u:^^ ^^^ Green Mountains, Lake George, 
Saratoga, Troy, Albany, and New York. 

The historical incidents connected with this route, added to its beautiful moun- 
tain and lake scenery, with clean boats and attentive officers, make the trip through 
these lakes one of the most enjoyable and interesting on this Continent. 

Main and close connections with all trains on the Delaware & Hudson Railroad 
at Fort Ticonderoga foi Lake George, Saratoga, Albanj', New York, and points 
South. At Plattsburgh, for Thousand Islands, Ogdensburgh, Montreal, and Quebec. 
At Plattsburgh, with Chateaugay Railroad for all points in the Adirondack Moun- 
tains. At Burlington, with the' Central Vermont Railroad for White and Green 
Mountain resorts. At Port Kent, for Ausable Chasm. 

Meals served on board. The morning trains from the north have no boat con- 
nections on Lake Champlain. Take afternoon train and lodge at Plattsburgh. 
State-rooms can be had on board steamer if desired. Parties using state-rooms 
night before can have use of same during the passage through Lake Champlain. 
FOR FURTHER INFORMATION, ADDRESS 

GEORGE RUSHLOW, general manager. Burlington, Vt. 

86 



I F YOU HAVE NEVER BEEN TO.... 

The ^ C^T^KiiiL -f fJeaNT^iiN^ 



''THE MOST PICTURESQUE 
MOUNTAIN REGION ON THE GLOBE' 



It will j)ay you to visit 
this great health and 
pleasure resort. 



a ULSTER & DELAWARE R. R. 



is the direct and only 
all-rail route to this 
popular mountain region. 



DIRECT CONNECTION 

At KINGSTON, N. Y., with West 
Shore R. R. 

AND AT 

RONDOUT, N. Y. {hj Rhinebeck 

Ferry) with N. Y. C. & H. R. R. 

and Hudson River Line Steamers. 

Send six cents postage for Summer 

Book to N. A. SIMS, 

Genera! Passenger Agent. 

General Offices, Rondout. N. Y. 

87 



(Rook's Xou'^s. 



THOMAS COOK & SON 
offer unequaled facilities 
to travelers to and in all 
parts of the world. The firm 
has offices in all principal cities 
throughout the United States 
and Canada, Great Britain and Ireland, the Continent of Europe, Egypt, India, 
Ceylon, Burmah, Australia, and New Zealand, at which their clients can obtain 
reliable information and necessary assistance. 



Established 



THE- 



BALTIMORE & OHIO R. R 
BOSTON &L ALBANY R 
BOSTON &. MAINE R. R 



--TICKET AGENTS FOB 

ERIE R. R. MICHIGAN CENTRAL R. R. 

R. FITCHBURG R. R. N. Y. CENTRAL & H. R. R. 

LEHIGH VALLEY R. R. PENNSYLVANIA R. R. 



Tickets to all local and through points on the above Railroads and their connec- 
tions, and all places of interest from the Atlantic to the Pacific, can be obtained at 
the Chief American Office, 261 Broadway, where also Parlor and Sleeping Car Reserva- 
tions may be made and Baggage checked from residence to destination. No charge 
for Estimates or Information. 




COOK'S PARTY AT THE PYRAMIDS. 
At frequent intervals throughout the j-ear, select parties, under personal escort, 
leave New York to visit the principal tourist resorts of the world, as follows: 
EUROPE, May to August; ROUND THE WORLD, September and October; 
EGYPT, THE NILE, and PALESTINE, Fall, Winter, and Spring. 

T^l"t/^-mnc< f^r\r\l7- P-r Q /%-*-» Chief American Office, 261 and 262 Broad- 
l ilUllldo l^UUK Oc OOli, way. New York. New York Uptown 
nflfir^« 1225 Broadway. And at Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, San Francisco, Etc. 
CHIEF OFFICE, LUDGATE CIRCUS, LONDON. 

88 



Office, 



/\dirondack 
IV|ountains 

If you have never visited the 
Adirondack Mountains you will 
find that region a surprise and a 
delight to you; if you have visited 
it, you will surely go again. The 
service between New York and 
the Adirondacks this year, by the 
New York Central, will be better 
than ever before. Send two 2-cent 
stamps to George H. Daniels, Gen- 
eral Passenger Agent, Grand Cen- 
tral Station, New York, for a copy 
of the New York Central's new 
colored map of the Adirondack 
Mountains. 

New York Central Ticket Offices in 
Chicago are at 119 Adams Street, 
and ISO Clark Street. 



89 



M ichigan C entra l 

''The AUao-ara Falls Route.'"' 




PRINCIPAL T 

L. D. Heusner, 119 Adams St ..Chicago. 

W. G. Mather, Central Depot, foot 

of mh St Chicago. 

Frank E. Scott, Auditorium Hotel. Chicago. 

V. E. Labbe, 22dSt. Station Chicago. 

N. P. Farrin, 39th St. Station Chicago. 

Ira a. Manley, Hyde Park Station 

(53d St.).. ...Chicago. 

W.H.Leslie, 219 Main St Buffalo. 

E. N. Blood, Exchange St. Depot Buffalo. 

C. W. Miller. 8T7 Main St ...Buffalo. 

Byron B. Denison Niagara Falls, N. Y. 

James Rhines, 66 Woodward Ave... Detroit. 
G. W. F. Chamberlin, 3d St. Station. .Detroit. 



ICKET AGENTS. 

William Gates, Boody House Toledo. 

A. Almquist, Union Depot Grand Rapids. 

Frank R. Mosikr Jackson. 

Joseph Whiting, Station foot of 

Jackson St Bay City. 

R. N. R. Wheeler, Genesee Ave. Station, 

Saginaw, West Side. 
H. W. Steinhoff, Court St. Station, 

Saginaw, West Side. 

E. B Gates Kalamazoo. 

George J. Sadler Battle Creek. 

Baby & Dale St. Clair Springs. 

S. H. Palmer St. Thomas. 



John Paul, 395 Richmond St. 



BOSTON &. ALBANY RAILROAD. 



J. L. White, 366 Washington St. Boston. 

W. U. BixB Y, Boston & Albany Depot, 

Kneeland St Boston. 

Thomas Cook & Son, 332 Washington 

St. Boston. 



Henry Gaze & Sons, 201 Washing- 
ton St .Boston. 



NEW YORK CENTRAL & HUDSON RIVER RAILROAD. 

Geo. W. Seaman, 942 Broadway... New York. 

N. F. GuYRE, 53 West 125th St New York. 

E. H. Sturgis, 13Sth St. Station.. .New York. 
Eugene Lovenberg, 338 Fulton St.,Brooklyn. 

Oscar Sey.mour. 726 Fulton St Brooklyn. 

W. A. Smith, 74 Broadway, E. D Brooklyn. 



F. M. Lahm, Grand Central Station, 

42d St. and 4th Ave New York. 

Henry Gaze & Sons, 113 Broadw'y,New York, 
Thos. Cook & Son. 261 Broad way.. New York, 

H. M. Hunter, 413 Broadway New York, 

W. W. Meakim, 785 Broadway New York, 



FOREIGN AGENTS. 

Thomas Meadows & Co London, Liverpool, Manchester, Glasgow, Paris. 

Thomas Cook & Son, \ In all the principal cities of Great Britain and on the Continent 
Henry Gaze & Sons, \ of Europe. 

90 



ROME, WATERTOWN & 

OGDENSBURG RAILROAD. 

N. Y. C. & H. R. R. R. CO.. LESSEE. 

THE GREAT HIGHWAY AND FAVORITE ROUTE FOR FASHIONABLE PLEASURE 

TRAVEL. 

THE ONLY HLL-RHIL ROUTE 

.T? The Thousand Islands, 

"the loveliest river RESORT IN THE WORLD." 



'HE R., W. & O. R. R. is leased in perpetuity to the New York Central & Hudson River R R. 
' The lessee company has expended more than one million dollars in permanent improve- 
ments and betterments, relayin^the railway with the heaviest steel rails used north of the 
trunk lines; renewing' and rehallastin^ the i-oadlied, inci'easiiijj; the number of ties per 
mile, reiihicHiK the bridges with heavier new ones df steel and ii'on, and making various 
other improvements on the i; , AV. &(). system. Standard locomotives, capable of hauling the 
heaviest passenger trains at high speed, have been added to the motive power, and sumptuous 
new coaches to the passenger equipment. 

Solid Vestibule Trains to and from the Thousand Islands 

stop only at principal cities, and make the following very fast time: 

New Yokk, 8 hours; Albany, 5 hours; Utica, 3 hours: Niagara Falls, S^ hours; Buf- 
falo, 8 hours; Rochester, 63^ hours; Syracuse, 3}^ hours; connecting with the fast Express 
and Limited trains to and from Chicago, St. Louis, Cincinnati, Detroit, and Toledo, via Michigan 
Central Railroad. 

Thirteen Express trains week days, and five Express trains Sundays, run in and out of Clayton 
(Thousand Islands). Fast trains run to and from the West expressly to avoid the slow lake trip 
with its many discomforts, and to enable tourists and pleasure seekers to enjoy among the 
Thousand Islands the time thus gained (from 4 to 12 hours) which otherwise would be consumed 
in an uncertain and uninteresting lake passage. 

The Club Train. 

A superb train of Wagner vestibuled cars comprising a club car, a buffet parlor car, a sleep- 
ing car (which runs to and fi-om Chicago, via the Michitxan Central Railroad and Clayton), and 
elegant day coaches, runs solid between Niag-ai'a Falls and Clavton eve?y week day. This train 
makes the fastest time that lias ever lieen made between Niagara Falls and the St. Lawrence 
River, and is the great favorite witli all tourists and pleasure seekers. 

Wagner Vestibule Newest Buffet Sleeping and Drawing- 
Room Cars on all Through Trains. 

All trains connect at Clayton with Thousand Island Steamboat Co. for all places in the 
Thousand Island region. Connection is also made at Clayton witli Richelieu & Ontario Navigation 
Co. steamers for Montreal, (Quebec, the Saguenay, etc., passing all of the Thousand Islands and 
Rapids of the IMver St. Lawrence by davlight 

The Rome. Watertown & ()gdensl)u'rg K. R. is the GREAT TOURIST ROUTE to all places 
on the St. Lawrence River, all Canadian Resorts, the Adirondack Mountains, Green Mountains, 
White Mountains, and Sea-coast Resorts. 

Wagnei- Buffet Sleeping Cars run via Michigan Central Railroad and this route between 
Chicago and Portland, Maine, passing through the celelirated Wliite :Mountain Notch by daylight, 
and stopping directly in front of the principal hotels in the White Mountain Region. 

Send ten cents postage for the illustrated book. " Routes and Kates for Summer Tours," with 
230 pages, 150 fine illustrations, 8 valuable maps— the best book given away. 

THEO. BUTTERFIELD, 

General Passenger Agent, SYRACUSE, N. Y. 
91 



Granose 



NEW FOOD-CURE 
CONSTIPATION • 



FOR 



GRANOSE is a preparation 
from wheat, in which all the 
elements of the grain are 
preserved, and by combined 
processes of digestion, cook- 
ing, roasting, and steaming, 
brought into a state which 
renders assimilation possible with the smallest amount of labor on the part of the 
digestive organs. ACCEPTED BY MANY STOMACHS which reject food in all 
other forms. GRANOSE has the advantage of being not only in the highest de- 
gree digestible, wholesome, and curative of many disorders of nutrition, but at 
the same time it is 

THE MOST PALATABLE The delicate, nutty flavor of GRANOSE, 

OF FOODS - its delicious crispness, its delicate, appetizing 

odor, and above all the remarkable manner 

in which it agrees with the most refractory and fastidious stomachs, justify the 

assertion that it easily surpasses, for general purposes, all other food preparations 

which have been placed upon the market. 



A SOVEREIGN REMEDY 
FOR CONSTIPATION 



Within two or three days after beginning 

the use of this food, the great majority of 

persons suffering from chronic constipation 

find themselves almost entht-ly relieved, and the continued use of the food insures 

regular movements of the bowels in nearly all cases. 

For Samples, address 

SANITARIUM HEALTH FOOD CO., 

Battle Creek, Michigan. 




For Copies of 

A Summer Note Book, 

(Send lo cents postage*, 

Summer Tourist Routes 
and Rates, 

Time-Table Folders, 

And anj' information desired relative to routes, 
sleeping car accommodations, or any details rela- 
tive to the country described in this book, apply 
freely to the nearest Michigan Central ticket agent, 
or to any of the following officers or agents: 

- Chicago 



O. W. RuGGLES, General Passenger and Ticket Agent, 

Geo. E. King, Assistant General Passenger and Ticket Agent, 

W. H. Underwood, Eastern Passenger Agent, ( \\a\n ^t 

C. A. Carscadin, Traveling Passenger Agent, \ ^^9 -^^ctiu ol., 

John G. Laven, Canadian Passenger Agent, 49 King St., West, 

Wm. J. Seinwerth, Western Passenger Agent. 402 Monadnock Hiock, 

H. H. IMarlev, Southwestern Passenger Agent, Union Depot, 

W. L. Wyand, Northwestern Passenger Agent, 170 East Third St 

L. L. Caufy, Wisconsin Passenger Agent, 

Jos. S. Hall, Michigan Passenger Agent, * 

Chas. W. Mercer, Traveling Passenger Agent, f 



Chicago 

Buffalo 

Toronto 

Chicago 

Kansas City 

St. Paul 

Mason St., - - - MILWAUKEE 

Room 45, M. C. Station, Detroit 



Carlton C. Crane, Pacific Coast Agent, / 



10 Montgomery St., 



Amos Burr, Traveling Passenger Agent, \ 
L. D. Heusner, Passenger and Ticket Agent, 119 Adams St., - 
James Rhines, Passenger and Ticket Agent, 66 Woodward Ave. 
WM. H. Leslie, Ticket Agent, 219 Main St., _ - - - 

Wm. Gates, Ticket Agent, Boody House, - - - - 

92 



San Francisco 

- Chicago 

- Detroit 

- Buffalo 

Toledo 



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HOTEL FRASER, 

THOS. DONLEY, Prop. 



PORT STANLEY, ONT. 

Overlooking the Lake. 
Run in 'eonneetion with 
GRAND CENTRAL, St. Thomas, Ont. 
The Fraser is beautifully situated on the north shore of Lake Erie, directly 
opposite Cleveland, Ohio, and Midway between Detroit and Buffalo, and amidst a 
scene of rare loveliness. The social hops held at this resort tri-weekly are becoming 
famous for their beauty and select patronage. Rates, the most reasonable of any 
resort in America. Orchestra All Season. Open for Season 10th June. 
For terms and accommodations write early to 

THOS. DONLEY, St. Thomas, Ont. 

THE FISHING, BOATING, AND BATHING CAN NOT BE SURPASSED. 



PEOPLE'S LINE STEAMERS 



DEAN RICHMOND, 
Capt. J. H. M.\NVILLE. 



Leave ALBANY for 

NEW YORK 

8.00 p. m. every 

week day. 

COMFORT AND 

PLEASURE. 




DREW, 
Capt. S. J. Roe. 



Leave NEW YORK 
for ALBANY, 

Pief 41 N.H., foot Canal St. 

6.00 p. m. every 

week day. 



NO DUST. 



Tickets on sale throuffhoiit the West via Mich. Cent. R.R. and Lnke Shore R.R., and at stations 
of the New York Cent. <S Hud. River R. R., West Shore R. R., Ruuie, Watertown & Ogdensburg 
R. R. and connecting: lines, via People's Line Steamers to New York. Baggage checked through. 

Passengers can be TICKETED ;ind have their BAGGAGE CHECKED to all points on the New 
York Central and connecting roads west of Albany; also for all points North— Saratoga, Lake 
George, Lake Chaniplain. Tliousand Islands, etc. 

Passengers holding through tickets over New York Central and West Shore roads can have 
them made good over People's Line Steamers by having them exchanged by conductors on the 
trains, thus giving passengers choice of routes between Albany and New York, and points South. 
Passengers from the South will have tickets exchanged at People's Line office on pier foot Canal 
Street, N. R., New York. Electric bells and lights in evei-y room. 

J. H. ALLAIRE. M. B. WATERS, Albany. N. Y., 

GENERAL TICKET AGENT. g- GENERAL PASS' R AGENT. 



^ Health .!. .. 

AND '^ ' 

HE A •♦ R(ST 

' -Alma 

/^LMA,MlCHlGAH 










II^OR health seekers, for rest seekers, for 
pleasure seekers. The Alma is better than 
a vo3^age, better than the country, better than 
the tropics, better than an3"where else in the 
world; because it o;ives a^ou the benefit of the 
most efficacious mineral waters, the most emi- 
nent ph3^sicians, the grandest climate, the fin- 
est scenery — every comfort and convenience 
known in modern life. A handsome book 
telling you all about it, free. 

I The Alma Sanitarium Company, 

Alma, Michigan. 

96 



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